I don’t actually have a name yet for this motif! All suggestions welcome
For the sample in the photos, I have used Rico Design Ricorumi Cotton DK with a 4mm hook in Reed Green 075.

I’d say this is a slightly more advanced motif, you need to pay attention and be aware of the orientation of each round and where the corners are. If you are not a super confident crocheter, you may want to wait until I have made the video tutorial. If you enjoy a challenge then you can grab the pattern now from my Crochet Motif Pattern Directory which is FREE to sign-up to.

Sign up here: Mezzacraft Crochet Motif Pattern Directory (opens in new tab) 

You’ll also find my Granny Square Day designs from 2022 & 2023.

Enjoy!

Mezza
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Starts Monday 4th March 2024.

Dive into the world of crochet design with an easy to follow, four-week course. You’ll learn to craft a stunning scarf or wrap using simple square motifs, incorporating easy stitch sequences and effective joining techniques. This course is designed to simplify the design process, making it accessible to intermediate crocheters who are looking to add a personal touch to their work without overwhelming complexity. Through step-by-step video tutorials, detailed photo guides and weekly support calls, you’ll gain confidence in your design and crochet abilities.

Join our community of like-minded crafters to share your progress, exchange tips, and enjoy the collective inspiration.

By the end of the course, you’ll have a beautifully designed scarf or wrap that’s not only a testament to your skill but also a reflection of your unique creative vision.

• Free 4 week course.
• Starts Monday 4th March 2024.
• Suitable for crafters with basic crochet skills (not suitable for complete beginners).
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The sweater is part of a course I am running where I teach my students how to design and make their own top down sweater.

Crocheting with mohair blends such as Kid Silk, is tricky as ripping back or “frogging” can become virtually impossible if the halo of fluff sticks to itself and tangles up. This stitch pattern works really well because we are working into spaces rather than stitches which means the yarn has less chance of snarling up on itself.

It’s a simple and easy to memorize stitch, consisting of double crochet clusters and chain spaces (UK trebles). Use a larger hook than you normally would – here I’ve used a 4mm hook with a 2ply laceweight yarn to give a light and open fabric.

I decide to make the stitch pattern available to everyone, not just my students.

You can watch a video tutorial here:

Open Shell Stitch – Written Instructions & Chart

For full written instructions as well as crochet chart, please sign up for my FREE Crochet Stitch Directory – click here.

What will you make with it?

Share your projects with me on Instagram : Mezza | Crochet (@mezzamay)

How to Support Me

If you like what I do and you have made this pattern, you can buy me a coffee on Ko-fi – every donation, however small, is greatly appreciated! Ko-fi.com – Mezzamay

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The post Open Shell Stitch – Perfect for Crocheting with Kid Silk Mohair appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.

If you’re thinking of making a blanket, you can use the instructions for the washcloth to make a swatch with your desired yarn.

Download a pdf version of the pattern, including chart: click here.

Detailed video tutorial here:

Tools & Materials

Yarn & hook: Worsted/Aran weight cotton yarn – 4mm/H Hook

Yardage per washcloth: 50g/106m/116yds  

Finished dimensions: Approx – 25cm/9.8” x 25cm/9.8”  

Finished size & yardage will vary depending on hook size, yarn thickness & your personal gauge.

Alternative Yarn Thickness
You can also try DK weight yarn with a 3.5mm hook which will result in a slightly smaller cloth.

Yarn Ideas

The Cotton – We Are Knitters

Shiny Happy Cotton – Wool & the Gang

Rico Organic Cotton Aran

Paintbox Cotton Yarn Aran

3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern for Washcloth – Instructions

Note: these instructions are in US crochet terminology.

Row 1: Ch44; sk3 chs (counts as 1dc), working into the back ridges of the 4^th chain, 1dc; (1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 3dc in next ch) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 2dc in last ch. (counting the last 3chs of starting ch as 1stitch – 41sts)

Going forward, 2chs are made at the start of each row, these do not count as a stitch, nor are they ever worked into.

Switch to working through both loops of the stitch throughout.

Row 2: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1^st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in next last st which is the 3^rd ch of the ch3 skipped at the start of Row 1. (41sts)

Row 3: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1^st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in last st. (41sts)

Repeat Row 3 as desired and fasten off. For my washcloth, I needed 17 rows to make it square.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay

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The evolution of this beaded tealight holder crochet pattern is rather circuitous. I was asked to run a private crochet class to teach the mesh stitch so the students could learn how to make a re-usable shopping bag. The class would only be 2 hours long which would not be enough time to make a bag. I do like to make sure that my stand alone classes allow the students to walk away with a finished product. How could I create a mini project that would incorporate some of the elements required to make a bag?

10g of Yarn, Re-purposed Ramekins & Abandoned Beads

As it happened, I had also bought a selection of the “Yarn & Colors Mini Must Haves” on a whim a few weeks previously, not really having any idea what to make with them. At the same time, a rather large stack of empty Gü ramekins were creating a perilous booby trap, ready to go off at any time, in one of my kitchen cupboards. I was also emptying out the remnants of stuff my daughter had left in her room after moving to the US and found several packets of Preciosa Candy Mix beads that she obviously no longer wanted. In the back of my mind, I started to wonder if these three elements could be combined to make something useful… and I also wanted the challenge of creating a complete object with only one of the tiny, 10g mini balls!

Many hours were spent experimenting, getting the pattern just right so that it would fit the glass ramekins and also use only one of the mini skeins.

I ran this as a course at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton. Unfortunately, I never ran the private class as the interested party pulled out at the last minute. I was really looking forward to running the class and had also purchased more yarn, beads, hooks, tealights and elastic bands. Enough to make up 6 kits with 3 tea lights in each. Luckily, I did manage to sell some of the kits during the first lockdown and then my lovely friend Dee, from Dee Opp Yoga placed an order for a set of 10 beaded tealight holders which meant I did make back the money I had spent on materials.

The pattern is for the standard Gü ramekins, which are tapered. The pattern also includes instructions at the end for the ramekins with straight sides which are ever so slightly bigger.

The Preciosa Candy Mix beads are now discontinued but I will list some alternatives below.

A Perfect Gift for Friends & Family

Once you get the hang of the pattern, these crocheted tea light covers work up pretty quickly. With a huge range of yarn colours and beads, you can make endless combinations to match any decor. I have made dozens of these now as thank you gifts and birthday or Christmas presents. People are always delighted with a beautiful and unique handmade gift.

Tools & Materials – Per Holder

• 3ply or 4ply Cotton Yarn, 10g / 25m (27yds).
• Hook – 2.5mm / C/2 (Clover Amour are my favourite).
• Glass jar with a diameter of 7.5cm & height of 4.5cm (Gü cheesecake ramekins with slightly tapered sides).
• 125 x Small glass or crystal beads with a hole big enough to thread the yarn through, see section below about beads.
• Tea light.
• Elastic band that fits snuggly around the top of the jar, no thicker than 4mm. Approx. 5cm diameter works well.
• Tapestry or wool needle.

Beads

The Czech crystal beads in the photo tutorials are from Preciosa in “Jelly Candy Mix”. They are a square cut bead. 3.4 x 3.4mm with a 1.1mm hole. I used about 10g per jar.

Other suitable beads include:

• Miyuki Delica Size 8.
• Toho Seed Beads Size 6.

I bought these from eBay.

Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – Instructions

You can purchase the pattern from:

LoveCrafts

Ravelry

Larger Ramekin

For the supermarket own brand & Bon Maman puddings in a similar glass ramekin, you’ll need to modify the pattern ever so slightly because the glass dishes are a tad bigger- instructions are on the last page of the download. For these I used Miyuki Delica Size 8 which are crystal beads in a Rose Gold colour. I also added extra beads around the trim on the last row. These were a Christmas gift for my mum.

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission. This is at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

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What is a dtr3tog & when would you use it?

dtr3tog is short for “double treble crochet 3 together”. Sometimes it is also written as dtrc3tog. The stitch consists of 3 double treble posts but has only one stitch at the top.
This stitch combination can be used as a decorative, cluster stitch, for example, to emulate a petal or leaf. Alternatively, when worked across 3 stitches, it can also be used as a decrease.

What are the Symbols for dtr3tog?

I’ve made a few quick drawings of both versions of dtr3tog, including how they are worked for the start of a new round or row.

How to dtr3tog – Instructions

I have written up 4 sets of instructions, in this post I cover the cluster stitch. I have written a separate post for the decrease/across 3 stitches version, but you can access those instructions via the links below:

1. dtr3tog cluster – at start of the row/round…see below.
2. dtr3tog cluster – mid row/round… see below.
3. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – at start of the row/round… click here.
4. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – mid row/round… click here.

How to dtr3tog at the start of the row:

If required, join new colour. I do this by holding the yarn at the back and pulling up a loop (fig. 1); chain 3 (fig. 2); yarn over twice (fig.3); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 4);

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 5); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 6); yarn over twice (fig. 7); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 8);

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 9); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 10); yarn over & draw off all 3 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 11)

To make the stitch mid row/round :

yarn over twice (fig.12); insert hook into the next stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 13); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 14); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 15);

yarn over twice (fig.16); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 17); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 18); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 19);

now yarn over twice (fig.20); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 21); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 22); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 4 loops on the hook (fig. 23);

yarn over & draw off all 4 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 23)

Summary of a dtr3tog

Make 3 partial double treble crochet stitches in the same stitch and finish them all off in one go.

Tools & Materials Featured in this Post

The green & teal yarns are Falkland Poldale DK 100% Wool by WitchCraftyLady.

The cream yarn is Rare Breed Wensleydale & Bluefaced Leicester DK in Cotswold Stone by Home Farm Wensleydales.

My hook is about 7 years old and it’s handmade by Furls. Not sure if they still sell the handmade hooks – they seem to be selling mass produced ones these days.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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The post How to dtr3tog Cluster – UK/British Crochet Terminology appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.

I designed this stitch pattern for a summer top. The top is crocheted from side to side so I’ve actually used the stitch pattern vertically which gives this nice, pinstripe effect. The top is crocheted with a 4ply yarn in a wool/silk blend and a 2.75mm hook, a combination that gives a really nice drape for a garment. Additionally, because of the way light shines on silk, it means that these horizontal stitches catch the light slightly differently to the vertical stitches which just gives a really interesting texture.

You can, of course, use different thicknesses of yarn and larger hook sizes.

Same stitch, different yarn!

Here you can see that the different yarns, thicknesses and hook size do generate quite different kinds of fabric that you could use for lots of different crochet projects. For example, the Aran/Worsted weight would make quite a nice cowl or even a hat. The stitch in DK could make a lovely baby blanket since the holes in the fabric are not big enough for babies’ fingers to get stuck in. You can see a stitch in a whole new light when you change the type of yarn and the hook size – each one catches the light differently and shows the stitches up in a slightly different way.

4ply/Fingering

For the 4ply swatch, I’ve used a 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 24sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Posh Yarn Undyed Dorothy Sock (50% Superwash Merino, 50% Silk) www.poshyarn.co.uk

DK (double knit or heavy Sport weight)

For the double knit swatch, I’ve used a 3mm hook for the starting chain and a 3.5 mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 22sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in Putty Grey (121)

Aran / Worsted

For the Aran swatch, I’ve used a 4mm hook for the starting chain and 4.5mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 18sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Cream (61)

The Importance of Swatching

I wanted to make the same top again but this time in some 4ply cotton.  I crocheted up a swatch but didn’t like the drape of the fabric – it was very stiff at the correct gauge. There can be quite a lot variation in yarn thickness from one brand of 4ply to another which isn’t all that evident until you actually work it up. And that’s one of the reasons why I always suggest swatching, especially when you’re making garments, because it’s not just about getting the gauge spot on so that the item will fit you, it’s also about just seeing whether you actually like the fabric that will result in using the stitch pattern, the yarn, the hook size and getting the gauge.

Remember to wash and block your swatch too. This is particularly important if you are making a garment as the gauge, because drape and stitch definition of the fabric can alter considerably, especially with natural fibres.

Matching Chain and Stitch Gauge

One thing I need to point for this stitch pattern and the resulting top that I made, is that I had to go down a hook size for the starting chain because it didn’t match the gauge of the main stitch pattern. You might be fortunate in that the gauge for your starting chain and swatch match but you won’t really know this before you start so this is another reason why it’s really important to swatch because this is the kind of thing that can show up that you might not have thought about.
So here you can see another swatch sample that I crocheted up. I used the same hook size for the starting chain as I did for the main body of the stitches. What you’ll notice is that the starting chain doesn’t match the gauge of the stitches, i.e. the gauge is bigger, resulting in the bottom edge of my swatch being distorted and too wide. If you’re making a garment or a blanket and you use the same size hook for the chain as the stitches, you’re going to end up with the bottom or edge, depending on where you’ve started being much too long. So in the case of the top, it means one of your side seams will be out of proportion.
To correct the disparity between the gauges, I used a 2mm hook for the starting chain and then for row one, I switched to the 2.75mm, which gave me matching gauges. For the other swatches in this post, I only went down 0.5mm in hook size. You might need a small amount of trial an error. I am a big advocate for adding hooks in in the smaller, 0.25mm increments to your collection, because these can often be the key to getting correct gauge for garments.

You can find video instructions here which includes lots of additional tips. Check the comment under the video for the timestamp, click to jump straight to the stitch pattern instructions:

Downloadable Instructions

Download a .pdf here, which includes a stitch chart : Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size. For these instructions, I am using a 4ply/sock weight yarn with 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and switching to a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.

Stitch pattern repeat

3 – so to make a larger piece of fabric, increase your starting chain in increments of 3.

TIP : Try to keep the chains true to hook size, i.e. when you crochet, keep the loop exactly the same size as the diameter of the hook, rather than extending the loop. For this particular pattern, it keeps the stitches really neat, minimizes the gaps between the tall stitches and enhances the effect of the “perforations”.

Start with the smaller hook, ch 26.

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back ridge of the chain, dc into the 4^th ch from the hook, 1dc into each ch. (24sts, counting the turning ch)

Row 2 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st (which was the ch3 turning ch of Row 1). (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Note: from now on, at the start of every round, there’s going to be a ch2 turning chain. This chain is never worked into, nor is it ever counted as a stitch.

Row 3 (RS): ch2, 1dc into 1^st st; *1dc in sp; 1dc into each of 2 wrapped hdcs*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; 1dc in last sp; 1dc in last st. (24sts)

Row 4 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st. (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Repeat rows 3-4 as desired, ending with a Row 3 for symmetry.

If you are swatching, make a total of 13 rows.

Hand wash your swatch in luke warm water with a mild detergent. I like to use a gentle shampoo. Do not wring. Squeeze out the excess water between two layers of a clean towel. Lay flat on a towel, gently pulling into shape to open up the stitches. You can pin it square with some stainless steel (rust free) pins if you like. Allow to dry naturally.

I hope you like my Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

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Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Instructions

Yarn Thickness & Hook Size

4ply/Fingering weight yarn – 3.5mm/E.
DK/Sport weight yarn – 4mm/G.
Worsted/Aran weight yarn – 5mm/H.

Note : hook sizes are a guide only – please use whichever hook gives you your prefered fabric, e.g. if you’re making a blanket you don’t want it to be too stiff and tight so you might opt for a slightly larger hook than usual.

What type of yarn?

This stitch pattern really comes to life after it’s been washed and blocked – the “feather” element opens up beautifully. Natural fibers with good stitch memory work best with this pattern. So wool & cotton blends are a good example. Synthetic yarns such as acrylic may not give the desired result.

In the tutorial I have used a wool & cotton blend – Cotton Merino from Mayflower.

For the colourful baby blanket, I have used 4ply Hand Dyed Superfine Merino from WitchCraftyLady on Etsy. I would really recommend this yarn, it is beautifully soft and the colours that Almas uses to dye the yarn are so joyful to work with. She’s also an excellent seller and you always receive amazing service from her.

What is stitch memory?

I’ll explain, in case you don’t know what “stitch memory” is – it means a yarn that retains the shape of the stitch you have made, rather than trying to spring back into its natural form. So fibers such as linen, cotton & wool, once washed and blocked, will open up and lock into the stitch pattern. Some synthetic fibers on the the other hand, such as acrylic, tend to spring back after washing and blocking rather than retaining some of the key features of the stitch pattern. This is particularly noticeable in stitches that are open or lacey. Having said that, you can get away with a small amount of synthetic fiber in the yarn, for example if you are using a sock yarn that has some nylon, you should still get a good result.

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern

Written instructions & chart can be downloaded from my FREE Crochet Stitch Pattern Directory (opens in new tab).

Video tutorial is below:

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay

Newsletter

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

The post Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern – With Video Tutorial appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.

1. You don’t need any special equipment – yes, you can make a lucet cord without a lucet!
2. You can use the hook you’re already using for your project.
3. The technique is easy to memorise.
4. Once you get a rhythm going, the cord works up pretty quickly.
5. It makes a firm and thick cord.
6. The finished cord is flexible yet strong.
7. It’s very attractive – it looks like a four sided chain.

Materials

• Yarn – thicker is better for a good effect. I’m using a DK weight yarn doubled up (Paintbox Cotton DK in Melon Sorbet).
• A crochet hook – in this example I’m using a 3.5mm hook (Clover Amour). Use a slightly smaller hook than you’d normally use for the yarn thickness otherwise the stitches in the cord can end up being too slack.

How much yarn will I need for my cord?

You’ll need about 9 x the finished length of your cord.
E.g. desired cord is 30cm /12 inches long, so I’ll need 2.7 m / 3 yards of yarn or 2 x 2.7 m / 3 yards if you’re doubling up.

Crochet Instructions

• Wind off a separate ball of yarn from your main skein to make a double thickness thread – tie the ends together to keep them together to start with.
• With the tail end to the left, lay the yarn on a flat surface in an “arc” shape (fig. 1).
• Fold over the top of the arc (fig. 2) , to make 2 “loops”.
• Insert the hook into the right loop, from above, then, coming from underneath, bring the hook up through the left loop (fig. 3) .

• Pull the loops tight on the hook (fig. 4).
• Rearrange the yarn – move the working end of the yarn over the left and hold the tail end as if to make a chain (fig. 5).
• Yarn over and pull a loop through the first loop on the hook, i.e. ch1 with the left loop (fig. 5).

• Carefully remove this loop from the hook (fig. 7).
• Pinch this loop between your thumb and middle finger (or forefinger if you use your middle finger to feed the yarn) to stop it coming undone when you work the next stitch (fig. 8).
• Ch1 with the right loop (fig. 9).

• Replace the left loop on the hook (fig. 10)…
• …and ch1 with the left loop (fig. 11).
• Continue in this way, i.e. drop & hold left loop, ch1 right loop, replace left loop; ch1 left loop…until the cord measures desired length (fig. 12).

• To finish off, after a ch1 left loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the left and right loops (fig. 13).
• Cut the yarn, yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook and all the way out. Pull tight (fig. 14).
• Tie a tight knot in each end and trim, or as in this example, you could also add a bead at each end for a decorative effect (fig. 15).

TIP : To even out the cord, roll it between your fingers and pull it gently all along is length. This makes a big difference to the look of the cord – making it firmer and smoother.

You can also find a video of this technique on my YouTube channel:

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

The post Crochet Lucet Cord Tutorial appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.

Materials 

Key (US terminology)

Special stitches & techniques:

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.

Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
Join the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.
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