I’ve made two videos showing you how to make a simple shell crochet border for different scenarios:

1. Making a border around a rectangular piece of work, such as a blanket or wrap that has corners.
2. Putting a border around a hem or a cuff (no corners).

In these videos, I have used my 4 Round Granny Square pattern with the Join-As-You-Go technique.

Video Tutorial – Simple Shell Crochet Border on a Blanket or Wrap

Video Tutorial – Simple Shell Crochet Border on a Sleeve or Cuff

Simple Shell Crochet Border – Basic Instructions for Blanket or Wrap (with corners)

1. Use the same yarn and hook size that you used for the main part of your project. e.g. I used a DK yarn and 4mm hook for my granny squares so I have used the same for my border.
2. Start with a setup row of sc (UK dc), ensuring that the final stitch count is divisible by 4 +1 (this is the stitch pattern repeat).
3. Start in the 5th stitch to the right of any corner space.
4. Place 1sc in each st of the motif. Where the motifs join, place 1sc in each ch corner space and 1sc in each sl st join. Place a marker in the 1st & 3rd sc made in the corner. The corner shell must be made in the middle stitch.
5. Make increases or decreases depending on factors such as gauge and rounding to hit the correct stitch count for the pattern repeat (i.e. stitch count must be divisible by 4 with 1 remaining stitch).
6. End the round with a sl st in the first sc made.
7. For the shell/scalloped round, start with a 1ch, 1sc in same st, [skip 1 stitch and make 5 dc (UK 5 tr) in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch & slip stitch into the next] repeat as necessary until you hit the corners; skip the stitch with the marker and make a 5dc shell in the empty corner stitch.
8. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch made and fasten off.

Simple Shell Crochet Border – Basic Instructions for Hems & Cuffs

1. Use the same yarn and hook size that you used for the main part of your project. e.g. I used a DK yarn and 4mm hook for my granny squares so I have used the same for my border.
2. Start with a setup row of sc (UK dc), ensuring that the final stitch count is divisible by 4 (this is the stitch pattern repeat).
3. Start near a side seam.
4. Place 1sc in each st of the motif. Where the motifs join, place 1sc in each ch corner space and 1sc in each sl st join.
5. Make increases or decreases depending on factors such as gauge and rounding to hit the correct stitch count for the pattern repeat (i.e. stitch count must be divisible by 4).
6. End the round with a sl st in the first sc made.
7. For the shell/scalloped round, start with a 1ch, 1sc in same st, [skip 1 stitch and make 5 dc (UK 5 tr) in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch & slip stitch into the next] repeat as necessary until you come back round to the start.
8. Finish with a slip stitch in the first stitch made and fasten off.

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I am in the process of decommissioning this website. All instructions for this motif and top have been moved to my learning platform here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

***ABOUT THIS PATTERN***

Thank you so much for showing an interest in my crochet work. I really appreciate your support and I’m happy to share some of my processes here with you in case you fancy having a go yourself at making a top using the motif.

My pattern has not been tested or tech edited. If you embark on the creative journey of crocheting a garment with these notes, please see these instructions as more of a “recipe” to help you make your own unique item.

Project Overview – Green Linen Top

Construction : square motifs which are connected with the “join as you go” method in the last round. Neck shaping is created with partial motifs.
Simple borders on the neck, arms & hem.
The side seams have a “shared motif”, meaning a full motif wraps around with half the motif on the front panel and half on the back.
Shape & Fit : a loose, rectangular, sleeveless tee with split hems. I measure 91cm/36 inches around the chest and I’m about 171cm/5′ 7″ tall.
Finished Size : 68cm / 26.7″ across, 136cm / 53.5″ around chest, 58cm /22.8″ long.
Materials : 3 x 100g skeins (1,350 metres / 1,476 yards) of Lithuanian Linen from Midwinter Yarns in Avocado.
Tools : 2.25mm hook & locking stitch markers.

Choosing Your Yarn & Hook Size

Because these are quite large motifs with some relatively large open spaces, I would not recommend using anything thicker than 4py for making a garment. The thinner the yarn, the more flexibility you will have with sizing. These notes cover making the top in 3ply/heavy lace but you can apply the same principles if you use 2ply/laceweight or any of the finer crochet threads which will probably give even better results.

Swatching

You will need to start by making a swatch of 2×2 motifs.
As a guide:
For the 3ply/heavy lace yarn, I have used a 2.25mm hook.
Hook size will vary from person to person depending on your gauge, the way you crochet and how “thick” your yarn is within it’s given yarn group, which can vary from one brand to the next, i.e. some 4ply could almost be classed as DK and some are very thin 4ply, could almost be a heavy lace weight.

This part is really important : You will need to wash, block and allow your 4 motif section to dry before measuring so that you have the most accurate measurements. Check the size of your motifs. If you want to make the same size as mine, your squares will need to come out the same size.

Resources

Motifs & Join

You can find the main motif and joining techniques by clicking on the links below. Note: these are for the 4ply version but are no different for this 3ply version, however, the layout and some of the motifs are different:

All videos and instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Schematics, Layouts & Construction

All videos and instructions available here:

https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Neck Shaping

All videos and instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Split Motif

This motif is used for making the split in the sides of the hem if you are using half motifs.

Instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Triangle Motif

This is used as an underarm gusset and to reduce the width of the sleeve opening.
Instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Joining Front to Back – Arm Holes & Side Split

Not currently available.

Hem Border

Instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

Sleeve / Armhole Border

Instructions available here: https://mezzacraft.newzenler.com/courses/cartwheels-clovers-crochet-motif

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If you’re thinking of making a blanket, you can use the instructions for the washcloth to make a swatch with your desired yarn.

Download a pdf version of the pattern, including chart: click here.

Detailed video tutorial here:

Tools & Materials

Yarn & hook: Worsted/Aran weight cotton yarn – 4mm/H Hook

Yardage per washcloth: 50g/106m/116yds  

Finished dimensions: Approx – 25cm/9.8” x 25cm/9.8”  

Finished size & yardage will vary depending on hook size, yarn thickness & your personal gauge.

Alternative Yarn Thickness
You can also try DK weight yarn with a 3.5mm hook which will result in a slightly smaller cloth.

Yarn Ideas

The Cotton – We Are Knitters

Shiny Happy Cotton – Wool & the Gang

Rico Organic Cotton Aran

Paintbox Cotton Yarn Aran

3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern for Washcloth – Instructions

Note: these instructions are in US crochet terminology.

Row 1: Ch44; sk3 chs (counts as 1dc), working into the back ridges of the 4^th chain, 1dc; (1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 3dc in next ch) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 2dc in last ch. (counting the last 3chs of starting ch as 1stitch – 41sts)

Going forward, 2chs are made at the start of each row, these do not count as a stitch, nor are they ever worked into.

Switch to working through both loops of the stitch throughout.

Row 2: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1^st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in next last st which is the 3^rd ch of the ch3 skipped at the start of Row 1. (41sts)

Row 3: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1^st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in last st. (41sts)

Repeat Row 3 as desired and fasten off. For my washcloth, I needed 17 rows to make it square.

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The evolution of this beaded tealight holder crochet pattern is rather circuitous. I was asked to run a private crochet class to teach the mesh stitch so the students could learn how to make a re-usable shopping bag. The class would only be 2 hours long which would not be enough time to make a bag. I do like to make sure that my stand alone classes allow the students to walk away with a finished product. How could I create a mini project that would incorporate some of the elements required to make a bag?

10g of Yarn, Re-purposed Ramekins & Abandoned Beads

As it happened, I had also bought a selection of the “Yarn & Colors Mini Must Haves” on a whim a few weeks previously, not really having any idea what to make with them. At the same time, a rather large stack of empty Gü ramekins were creating a perilous booby trap, ready to go off at any time, in one of my kitchen cupboards. I was also emptying out the remnants of stuff my daughter had left in her room after moving to the US and found several packets of Preciosa Candy Mix beads that she obviously no longer wanted. In the back of my mind, I started to wonder if these three elements could be combined to make something useful… and I also wanted the challenge of creating a complete object with only one of the tiny, 10g mini balls!

Many hours were spent experimenting, getting the pattern just right so that it would fit the glass ramekins and also use only one of the mini skeins.

I ran this as a course at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton. Unfortunately, I never ran the private class as the interested party pulled out at the last minute. I was really looking forward to running the class and had also purchased more yarn, beads, hooks, tealights and elastic bands. Enough to make up 6 kits with 3 tea lights in each. Luckily, I did manage to sell some of the kits during the first lockdown and then my lovely friend Dee, from Dee Opp Yoga placed an order for a set of 10 beaded tealight holders which meant I did make back the money I had spent on materials.

The pattern is for the standard Gü ramekins, which are tapered. The pattern also includes instructions at the end for the ramekins with straight sides which are ever so slightly bigger.

The Preciosa Candy Mix beads are now discontinued but I will list some alternatives below.

A Perfect Gift for Friends & Family

Once you get the hang of the pattern, these crocheted tea light covers work up pretty quickly. With a huge range of yarn colours and beads, you can make endless combinations to match any decor. I have made dozens of these now as thank you gifts and birthday or Christmas presents. People are always delighted with a beautiful and unique handmade gift.

Tools & Materials – Per Holder

• 3ply or 4ply Cotton Yarn, 10g / 25m (27yds).
• Hook – 2.5mm / C/2 (Clover Amour are my favourite).
• Glass jar with a diameter of 7.5cm & height of 4.5cm (Gü cheesecake ramekins with slightly tapered sides).
• 125 x Small glass or crystal beads with a hole big enough to thread the yarn through, see section below about beads.
• Tea light.
• Elastic band that fits snuggly around the top of the jar, no thicker than 4mm. Approx. 5cm diameter works well.
• Tapestry or wool needle.

Beads

The Czech crystal beads in the photo tutorials are from Preciosa in “Jelly Candy Mix”. They are a square cut bead. 3.4 x 3.4mm with a 1.1mm hole. I used about 10g per jar.

Other suitable beads include:

• Miyuki Delica Size 8.
• Toho Seed Beads Size 6.

I bought these from eBay.

Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – Instructions

You can purchase the pattern from:

LoveCrafts

Ravelry

Larger Ramekin

For the supermarket own brand & Bon Maman puddings in a similar glass ramekin, you’ll need to modify the pattern ever so slightly because the glass dishes are a tad bigger- instructions are on the last page of the download. For these I used Miyuki Delica Size 8 which are crystal beads in a Rose Gold colour. I also added extra beads around the trim on the last row. These were a Christmas gift for my mum.

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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This is a 5 round, traditional granny square, using three colours. Colour A is used for 2 rounds, colour B for 1 round and colour C for 2 rounds, hence 2-1-2! Traditionally, granny squares were made to use up scrap yarn and each round would be a different colour and inevitably resulted in lots of ends to sew in! This pattern still gives the opportunity to use multiple colours but there are a few less ends to weave in, 4 less in fact!

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size but for these instructions. I am using a 4ply / Fingering weight yarn in three colours – A, B & C with a 3mm / D hook. This makes a motif that is 8cm x 8cm / 3.1” x 3.1”. Bear in mind a thicker yarn and larger hook size will result in a bigger motif.

The yarn I have used is Merino Nylon blend 4ply from www.FruitfulFusion.co.uk

The blues and browns are from a mini skein set called “City of Bridges”. The pink is “Mango”.

How to Make a 2-1-2 Granny Square with Video

2-1-2 Granny Square Pattern – Download

Download a pdf of the pattern here. Includes a chart.

How to Make a 2-1-2 Granny Square – Instructions

Round 1 : With colour A, ch4 & join with a sl st in 1^st ch to form a ring; ch5*(counts as 1dc & ch2sp); working into the ring, (3dc, ch2) 3 times (see fig. 2); 2dc; sl st into 3^rd ch of beg ch5. Do not fasten off (4 x 3dc clusters, 4 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 3)

*Note : If, like me, making a ch5 gives your finishing corner a significantly larger “hole” than the other corners,  switch to a ch4 here and then finish with a sl st in 3^rd ch of this ch4 to make the hole match the others. You can use this switch for the start of every round if it suits your gauge better.

Round 2 : Continuing with colour A, sl st into next ch2 sp; ch5(counts as 1dc & ch2sp), in the same sp, 3dc; in next corner space (3dc, ch2, 3dc) 3 times; in first corner sp, 2dc; sl st into 3^rd ch of beg ch5. Fasten off (8 x 3dc clusters, 4 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 4)

Round 3 : Join colour B in any corner sp, except where the prev rnd ended; ch5(counts as 1dc & ch2sp), in the same sp, 3dc; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc) 3 times; between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc; in first corner sp, 2dc; sl st into 3^rd ch of beg ch5. Fasten off (12 x 3dc clusters, 4 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 5)

Round 4 : Join colour C in any corner sp, except where the prev rnd ended; ch5(counts as 1dc & ch2sp), in the same sp, 3dc; [(between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 2 times; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc] 3 times; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 2 times; in first corner sp, 2dc; sl st into 3^rd ch of beg ch5. Do not fasten off  (16 x 3dc clusters, 4 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 6)

Round 5 : Continuing with colour C, sl st into next ch2 sp; ch5(counts as 1dc & ch2sp), in the same sp, 3dc; [(between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 3 times; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc] 3 times; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 3 times; in first corner sp, 2dc; sl st into 3^rd ch of beg ch5. Fasten off  (20 x 3dc clusters, 4 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 7)

Half / Triangle Motif

For instructions for making a half/triangle version of this motif, please visit this page : How to Make a Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square – Mezzacraft – Sharing the Art of Crochet

Granny Square Sweater Project

I have used these squares to make a granny square jumper/sweater on the bias, using a granny stitch border to join all the motifs together! I have called this the “Fruitful Granny Sweater” because all the yarns were dyed by the talented Ishrat from www.fruitfulfusion.co.uk . This sweater is part of my “Design & Make Your Own Granny Square Sweater” course which I am running at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames is September this year (2021). This course will also be run as a guided online course in November if you would like to take part but are unable to attend in person. Please sign up to my newsletter below to be notified of sign-ups.

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my 2-1-2 Granny Square Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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I designed this stitch pattern for a summer top. The top is crocheted from side to side so I’ve actually used the stitch pattern vertically which gives this nice, pinstripe effect. The top is crocheted with a 4ply yarn in a wool/silk blend and a 2.75mm hook, a combination that gives a really nice drape for a garment. Additionally, because of the way light shines on silk, it means that these horizontal stitches catch the light slightly differently to the vertical stitches which just gives a really interesting texture.

You can, of course, use different thicknesses of yarn and larger hook sizes.

Same stitch, different yarn!

Here you can see that the different yarns, thicknesses and hook size do generate quite different kinds of fabric that you could use for lots of different crochet projects. For example, the Aran/Worsted weight would make quite a nice cowl or even a hat. The stitch in DK could make a lovely baby blanket since the holes in the fabric are not big enough for babies’ fingers to get stuck in. You can see a stitch in a whole new light when you change the type of yarn and the hook size – each one catches the light differently and shows the stitches up in a slightly different way.

4ply/Fingering

For the 4ply swatch, I’ve used a 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 24sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Posh Yarn Undyed Dorothy Sock (50% Superwash Merino, 50% Silk) www.poshyarn.co.uk

DK (double knit or heavy Sport weight)

For the double knit swatch, I’ve used a 3mm hook for the starting chain and a 3.5 mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 22sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in Putty Grey (121)

Aran / Worsted

For the Aran swatch, I’ve used a 4mm hook for the starting chain and 4.5mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 18sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Cream (61)

The Importance of Swatching

I wanted to make the same top again but this time in some 4ply cotton.  I crocheted up a swatch but didn’t like the drape of the fabric – it was very stiff at the correct gauge. There can be quite a lot variation in yarn thickness from one brand of 4ply to another which isn’t all that evident until you actually work it up. And that’s one of the reasons why I always suggest swatching, especially when you’re making garments, because it’s not just about getting the gauge spot on so that the item will fit you, it’s also about just seeing whether you actually like the fabric that will result in using the stitch pattern, the yarn, the hook size and getting the gauge.

Remember to wash and block your swatch too. This is particularly important if you are making a garment as the gauge, because drape and stitch definition of the fabric can alter considerably, especially with natural fibres.

Matching Chain and Stitch Gauge

One thing I need to point for this stitch pattern and the resulting top that I made, is that I had to go down a hook size for the starting chain because it didn’t match the gauge of the main stitch pattern. You might be fortunate in that the gauge for your starting chain and swatch match but you won’t really know this before you start so this is another reason why it’s really important to swatch because this is the kind of thing that can show up that you might not have thought about.
So here you can see another swatch sample that I crocheted up. I used the same hook size for the starting chain as I did for the main body of the stitches. What you’ll notice is that the starting chain doesn’t match the gauge of the stitches, i.e. the gauge is bigger, resulting in the bottom edge of my swatch being distorted and too wide. If you’re making a garment or a blanket and you use the same size hook for the chain as the stitches, you’re going to end up with the bottom or edge, depending on where you’ve started being much too long. So in the case of the top, it means one of your side seams will be out of proportion.
To correct the disparity between the gauges, I used a 2mm hook for the starting chain and then for row one, I switched to the 2.75mm, which gave me matching gauges. For the other swatches in this post, I only went down 0.5mm in hook size. You might need a small amount of trial an error. I am a big advocate for adding hooks in in the smaller, 0.25mm increments to your collection, because these can often be the key to getting correct gauge for garments.

You can find video instructions here which includes lots of additional tips. Check the comment under the video for the timestamp, click to jump straight to the stitch pattern instructions:

Downloadable Instructions

Download a .pdf here, which includes a stitch chart : Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size. For these instructions, I am using a 4ply/sock weight yarn with 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and switching to a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.

Stitch pattern repeat

3 – so to make a larger piece of fabric, increase your starting chain in increments of 3.

TIP : Try to keep the chains true to hook size, i.e. when you crochet, keep the loop exactly the same size as the diameter of the hook, rather than extending the loop. For this particular pattern, it keeps the stitches really neat, minimizes the gaps between the tall stitches and enhances the effect of the “perforations”.

Start with the smaller hook, ch 26.

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back ridge of the chain, dc into the 4^th ch from the hook, 1dc into each ch. (24sts, counting the turning ch)

Row 2 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st (which was the ch3 turning ch of Row 1). (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Note: from now on, at the start of every round, there’s going to be a ch2 turning chain. This chain is never worked into, nor is it ever counted as a stitch.

Row 3 (RS): ch2, 1dc into 1^st st; *1dc in sp; 1dc into each of 2 wrapped hdcs*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; 1dc in last sp; 1dc in last st. (24sts)

Row 4 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st. (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Repeat rows 3-4 as desired, ending with a Row 3 for symmetry.

If you are swatching, make a total of 13 rows.

Hand wash your swatch in luke warm water with a mild detergent. I like to use a gentle shampoo. Do not wring. Squeeze out the excess water between two layers of a clean towel. Lay flat on a towel, gently pulling into shape to open up the stitches. You can pin it square with some stainless steel (rust free) pins if you like. Allow to dry naturally.

I hope you like my Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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The post Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.

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This Feather & Fan Crochet Blanket uses the “feather & fan” stitch, click here for video tutorial of the stitch.

This blanket was inspired by the beautiful, hand-dyed yarn of Almas, who has an Etsy store under the name of Witchcraftylady. I used some of her Falkland Corriedale mini skein sets and one full 100g skein of 4ply, a total of 300g to make a blanket that measures 90cm x 90cm (approx 35 x 35 inches).

You could easily make this blanket larger or even turn it into a wrap – I give approximate yardage. If you fancy using a thicker yarn, such as DK, bear in mind that using thicker yarn will make larger “holes” in the lacey sections which may then not be suitable for babies’.

Note : the pattern only gives approximate yardage for 4ply/fingering with a 3.5mm/E hook but please feel free to use whichever hook gives you your preferred fabric, e.g. if you’re making a blanket you don’t want it to be too stiff and tight so you might opt for a slightly larger hook than usual and remember changing hook size and/or yarn will result in a different yardage requirement.

Feather & Fan Crochet Blanket

Tools & Materials

3.5mm/E Hook (my favourite are Clover Amour)

1,200 meters (1,312 yards) 4ply/fingering yarn in 6 colours – 400 meters (437 yards) in main colour, 5 x 80 meters (87 yards) in contrast colours.

This stitch pattern really comes to life after it’s been washed and blocked – the “feather” element opens up beautifully. Natural fibers with good stitch memory work best with this pattern. So wool & cotton blends are a good example. Synthetic yarns such as acrylic may not give the desired result.

I used 100g Hand Dyed Poldale Sock & 10 x 20g Hand Dyed Corriedale 4ply from WitchCraftyLady.

Feather & Fan Crochet Blanket Instructions

You can download a .pdf pattern : click here.
Add to your Ravelry library : click here.

Video tutorial for stitch pattern:

Video tutorial for changing colours at the end of rows and minimizing the amount of sewing in required when complete:

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The post Feather & Fan Crochet Blanket appeared first on Mezzacraft - Sharing the Art of Crochet.