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New Crochet Motif for Granny Square Day 2024

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I actually designed this crochet motif for Granny Square Day 2024 about 6 months ago when I was playing around with another stitch pattern and as usual didn’t leave myself enough time to write up the pattern, draw the chart and film/edit/upload a video. So, a day late, I just have the first draft of the written instructions with a photo tutorial. 

I don’t actually have a name yet for this motif! All suggestions welcome 🙂
For the sample in the photos, I have used Rico Design Ricorumi Cotton DK with a 4mm hook in Reed Green 075.

I’d say this is a slightly more advanced motif, you need to pay attention and be aware of the orientation of each round and where the corners are. If you are not a super confident crocheter, you may want to wait until I have made the video tutorial. If you enjoy a challenge then you can grab the pattern now from my Crochet Motif Pattern Directory which is FREE to sign-up to.

Sign up here: Mezzacraft Crochet Motif Pattern Directory (opens in new tab) 

You’ll also find my Granny Square Day designs from 2022 & 2023.

Enjoy!

Mezza
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Crochet a Scarf That’s Uniquely Yours – Free Online Course

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Design & Make an Elegant Crochet Scarf with Simple Motifs & Stitches

Starts Monday 4th March 2024.

Dive into the world of crochet design with an easy to follow, four-week course. You’ll learn to craft a stunning scarf or wrap using simple square motifs, incorporating easy stitch sequences and effective joining techniques. This course is designed to simplify the design process, making it accessible to intermediate crocheters who are looking to add a personal touch to their work without overwhelming complexity. Through step-by-step video tutorials, detailed photo guides and weekly support calls, you’ll gain confidence in your design and crochet abilities.

Join our community of like-minded crafters to share your progress, exchange tips, and enjoy the collective inspiration.

By the end of the course, you’ll have a beautifully designed scarf or wrap that’s not only a testament to your skill but also a reflection of your unique creative vision.

  • Free 4 week course.
  • Starts Monday 4th March 2024.
  • Suitable for crafters with basic crochet skills (not suitable for complete beginners).
  • Weekly live Zoom calls – these are recorded to view when convenient.
free crochet course - make your own scarf

Open Shell Stitch – Perfect for Crocheting with Kid Silk Mohair

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I have used this “Open Shell Stitch” for my mohair top design which I have provisionally called the “Soufflé Sweater” – with thanks to Suraya Hossain for the name suggestion!

The sweater is part of a course I am running where I teach my students how to design and make their own top down sweater.

Crocheting with mohair blends such as Kid Silk, is tricky as ripping back or “frogging” can become virtually impossible if the halo of fluff sticks to itself and tangles up. This stitch pattern works really well because we are working into spaces rather than stitches which means the yarn has less chance of snarling up on itself.

It’s a simple and easy to memorize stitch, consisting of double crochet clusters and chain spaces (UK trebles). Use a larger hook than you normally would – here I’ve used a 4mm hook with a 2ply laceweight yarn to give a light and open fabric.

I decide to make the stitch pattern available to everyone, not just my students.

You can watch a video tutorial here:

Open Shell Stitch – Written Instructions & Chart

For full written instructions as well as crochet chart, please sign up for my FREE Crochet Stitch Directory – click here.

What will you make with it?

Share your projects with me on Instagram : Mezza | Crochet (@mezzamay)

How to Support Me

If you like what I do and you have made this pattern, you can buy me a coffee on Ko-fi – every donation, however small, is greatly appreciated! Ko-fi.com – Mezzamay

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3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern

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Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern. This is an easy to remember ripple stitch that can be applied to projects such as blankets, or in this example, a washcloth. I created this version of the very popular chevron stitch back in 2014 for a class of new crochet students that had just finished my learn to crochet course. It’s a great way to start understanding how increases and decreases can shape crochet fabric.

If you’re thinking of making a blanket, you can use the instructions for the washcloth to make a swatch with your desired yarn.

Download a pdf version of the pattern, including chart: click here.

Detailed video tutorial here:

Tools & Materials

Yarn & hook: Worsted/Aran weight cotton yarn – 4mm/H Hook

Yardage per washcloth: 50g/106m/116yds  

Finished dimensions: Approx – 25cm/9.8” x 25cm/9.8”  

Finished size & yardage will vary depending on hook size, yarn thickness & your personal gauge.

Alternative Yarn Thickness
You can also try DK weight yarn with a 3.5mm hook which will result in a slightly smaller cloth.

Key
beg beginning
ch chain
dcdouble crochet
prevprevious
st(s)stitch(es)

Yarn Ideas

The Cotton – We Are Knitters

Shiny Happy Cotton – Wool & the Gang

Rico Organic Cotton Aran

Paintbox Cotton Yarn Aran

3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern for Washcloth – Instructions

Note: these instructions are in US crochet terminology.

Row 1: Ch44; sk3 chs (counts as 1dc), working into the back ridges of the 4th chain, 1dc; (1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 3dc in next ch) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 2dc in last ch. (counting the last 3chs of starting ch as 1stitch – 41sts)

Going forward, 2chs are made at the start of each row, these do not count as a stitch, nor are they ever worked into.

Switch to working through both loops of the stitch throughout.

Row 2: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in next last st which is the 3rd ch of the ch3 skipped at the start of Row 1. (41sts)

Row 3: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in last st. (41sts)

Repeat Row 3 as desired and fasten off. For my washcloth, I needed 17 rows to make it square.

Note : if you want to use this stitch to make a larger cloth or even a blanket, you will need to add multiples of 10 to the starting chain for each additional pattern repeat.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay 🙂

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Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern

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This Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern is the perfect way to upcycle Gü & Bon Maman glass ramekins. Scroll down to download step by step instructions or to view video instructions to make these beautiful handmade homewares!

The evolution of this beaded tealight holder crochet pattern is rather circuitous. I was asked to run a private crochet class to teach the mesh stitch so the students could learn how to make a re-usable shopping bag. The class would only be 2 hours long which would not be enough time to make a bag. I do like to make sure that my stand alone classes allow the students to walk away with a finished product. How could I create a mini project that would incorporate some of the elements required to make a bag?

10g of Yarn, Re-purposed Ramekins & Abandoned Beads

As it happened, I had also bought a selection of the “Yarn & Colors Mini Must Haves” on a whim a few weeks previously, not really having any idea what to make with them. At the same time, a rather large stack of empty Gü ramekins were creating a perilous booby trap, ready to go off at any time, in one of my kitchen cupboards. I was also emptying out the remnants of stuff my daughter had left in her room after moving to the US and found several packets of Preciosa Candy Mix beads that she obviously no longer wanted. In the back of my mind, I started to wonder if these three elements could be combined to make something useful… and I also wanted the challenge of creating a complete object with only one of the tiny, 10g mini balls!

Many hours were spent experimenting, getting the pattern just right so that it would fit the glass ramekins and also use only one of the mini skeins.

I ran this as a course at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton. Unfortunately, I never ran the private class as the interested party pulled out at the last minute. I was really looking forward to running the class and had also purchased more yarn, beads, hooks, tealights and elastic bands. Enough to make up 6 kits with 3 tea lights in each. Luckily, I did manage to sell some of the kits during the first lockdown and then my lovely friend Dee, from Dee Opp Yoga placed an order for a set of 10 beaded tealight holders which meant I did make back the money I had spent on materials.

The pattern is for the standard Gü ramekins, which are tapered. The pattern also includes instructions at the end for the ramekins with straight sides which are ever so slightly bigger.

The Preciosa Candy Mix beads are now discontinued but I will list some alternatives below.

A Perfect Gift for Friends & Family

Once you get the hang of the pattern, these crocheted tea light covers work up pretty quickly. With a huge range of yarn colours and beads, you can make endless combinations to match any decor. I have made dozens of these now as thank you gifts and birthday or Christmas presents. People are always delighted with a beautiful and unique handmade gift.

Tools & Materials – Per Holder

  • 3ply or 4ply Cotton Yarn, 10g / 25m (27yds).
  • Hook – 2.5mm / C/2 (Clover Amour are my favourite).
  • Glass jar with a diameter of 7.5cm & height of 4.5cm (Gü cheesecake ramekins with slightly tapered sides).
  • 125 x Small glass or crystal beads with a hole big enough to thread the yarn through, see section below about beads.
  • Tea light.
  • Elastic band that fits snuggly around the top of the jar, no thicker than 4mm. Approx. 5cm diameter works well.
  • Tapestry or wool needle.

Beads

The Czech crystal beads in the photo tutorials are from Preciosa in “Jelly Candy Mix”. They are a square cut bead. 3.4 x 3.4mm with a 1.1mm hole. I used about 10g per jar.

Other suitable beads include:

  • Miyuki Delica Size 8.
  • Toho Seed Beads Size 6.

I bought these from eBay.

Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – Instructions

You can purchase the pattern from:

LoveCrafts

Ravelry

front cover of free beaded tealight crochet pattern showing colourful cotton designs

Larger Ramekin

hands hold two empty glass ramekins - one is Gu and one Bon Maman

For the supermarket own brand & Bon Maman puddings in a similar glass ramekin, you’ll need to modify the pattern ever so slightly because the glass dishes are a tad bigger- instructions are on the last page of the download. For these I used Miyuki Delica Size 8 which are crystal beads in a Rose Gold colour. I also added extra beads around the trim on the last row. These were a Christmas gift for my mum.

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Beaded Tealight Holder Crochet Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission. This is at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

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How to dtr3tog Cluster – UK/British Crochet Terminology

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A lady on a Facebook crochet forum asked how to dtr3tog so I made a video showing the two possible ways you can make this stitch. Please note, these instructions are for British crochet terminology. In US crochet, the stitch I am demonstrating is a tr3tog.

What is a dtr3tog & when would you use it?

dtr3tog is short for “double treble crochet 3 together”. Sometimes it is also written as dtrc3tog. The stitch consists of 3 double treble posts but has only one stitch at the top.
This stitch combination can be used as a decorative, cluster stitch, for example, to emulate a petal or leaf. Alternatively, when worked across 3 stitches, it can also be used as a decrease.

What are the Symbols for dtr3tog?

I’ve made a few quick drawings of both versions of dtr3tog, including how they are worked for the start of a new round or row.

symbols for dtr3tog - including at the start of a row/round - British UK crochet terminology

How to dtr3tog – Instructions

I have written up 4 sets of instructions, in this post I cover the cluster stitch. I have written a separate post for the decrease/across 3 stitches version, but you can access those instructions via the links below:

  1. dtr3tog cluster – at start of the row/round…see below.
  2. dtr3tog cluster – mid row/round… see below.
  3. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – at start of the row/round… click here.
  4. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – mid row/round… click here.

How to dtr3tog at the start of the row:

If required, join new colour. I do this by holding the yarn at the back and pulling up a loop (fig. 1); chain 3 (fig. 2); yarn over twice (fig.3); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 4);

first four steps of making a double treble three together - hands crocheting with cream wool

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 5); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 6); yarn over twice (fig. 7); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 8);

steps 5-8 of making a double treble three together - hands crocheting with cream yarn

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 9); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 10); yarn over & draw off all 3 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 11)

Last three steps of making a dtr3tog - woman's hands crochet with cream wool.

To make the stitch mid row/round :

yarn over twice (fig.12); insert hook into the next stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 13); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 14); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 15);

making a dtr3tog mid row - woman's hands crochet with cream yarn.

yarn over twice (fig.16); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 17); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 18); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 19);

hands crocheting with teal and cream coloured natural yarn

now yarn over twice (fig.20); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 21); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 22); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 4 loops on the hook (fig. 23);

crocheting double treble stitches in wensleydale wool

yarn over & draw off all 4 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 23)

Summary of a dtr3tog

Make 3 partial double treble crochet stitches in the same stitch and finish them all off in one go.

Tools & Materials Featured in this Post

The green & teal yarns are Falkland Poldale DK 100% Wool by WitchCraftyLady.

The cream yarn is Rare Breed Wensleydale & Bluefaced Leicester DK in Cotswold Stone by Home Farm Wensleydales.

My hook is about 7 years old and it’s handmade by Furls. Not sure if they still sell the handmade hooks – they seem to be selling mass produced ones these days.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch

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I’m going to show you how to make this very simple, but effective stitch pattern. I’ve coined it the “Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch” pattern, and it’s quite a simple crochet stitch combination. Click here to jump straight to the instructions. It only uses US double crochets (UK trebles) and US half doubles (UK half trebles). What I really like about it, is that it’s not a completely solid fabric – it has, what I call perforations, so it’s also not too open and therefore, it’s quite good for garments where you don’t want a totally solid stitch pattern, but at the same time, you want a bit of modesty that you might not get with a very lacy pattern.

close up of crocheted vest top in pinstripe crochet stitch pattern from mezzacraft ...worn by mezza

I designed this stitch pattern for a summer top. The top is crocheted from side to side so I’ve actually used the stitch pattern vertically which gives this nice, pinstripe effect. The top is crocheted with a 4ply yarn in a wool/silk blend and a 2.75mm hook, a combination that gives a really nice drape for a garment. Additionally, because of the way light shines on silk, it means that these horizontal stitches catch the light slightly differently to the vertical stitches which just gives a really interesting texture.

You can, of course, use different thicknesses of yarn and larger hook sizes.

Same stitch, different yarn!

Here you can see that the different yarns, thicknesses and hook size do generate quite different kinds of fabric that you could use for lots of different crochet projects. For example, the Aran/Worsted weight would make quite a nice cowl or even a hat. The stitch in DK could make a lovely baby blanket since the holes in the fabric are not big enough for babies’ fingers to get stuck in. You can see a stitch in a whole new light when you change the type of yarn and the hook size – each one catches the light differently and shows the stitches up in a slightly different way.

perforated pinstripes crochet stitch - sample in4ply/fingering weight yarn

4ply/Fingering

For the 4ply swatch, I’ve used a 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 24sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Posh Yarn Undyed Dorothy Sock (50% Superwash Merino, 50% Silk) www.poshyarn.co.uk

pintripe crochet stitch in double knit yarn

DK (double knit or heavy Sport weight)

For the double knit swatch, I’ve used a 3mm hook for the starting chain and a 3.5 mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 22sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in Putty Grey (121)

simple perforated crochet stitch in worsted weight yarn

Aran / Worsted

For the Aran swatch, I’ve used a 4mm hook for the starting chain and 4.5mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 18sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Cream (61)

The Importance of Swatching

I wanted to make the same top again but this time in some 4ply cotton.  I crocheted up a swatch but didn’t like the drape of the fabric – it was very stiff at the correct gauge. There can be quite a lot variation in yarn thickness from one brand of 4ply to another which isn’t all that evident until you actually work it up. And that’s one of the reasons why I always suggest swatching, especially when you’re making garments, because it’s not just about getting the gauge spot on so that the item will fit you, it’s also about just seeing whether you actually like the fabric that will result in using the stitch pattern, the yarn, the hook size and getting the gauge.

Remember to wash and block your swatch too. This is particularly important if you are making a garment as the gauge, because drape and stitch definition of the fabric can alter considerably, especially with natural fibres.

Matching Chain and Stitch Gauge

two crochet swatching showing the difference in using a smaller hook for the starting chain

One thing I need to point for this stitch pattern and the resulting top that I made, is that I had to go down a hook size for the starting chain because it didn’t match the gauge of the main stitch pattern. You might be fortunate in that the gauge for your starting chain and swatch match but you won’t really know this before you start so this is another reason why it’s really important to swatch because this is the kind of thing that can show up that you might not have thought about.
So here you can see another swatch sample that I crocheted up. I used the same hook size for the starting chain as I did for the main body of the stitches. What you’ll notice is that the starting chain doesn’t match the gauge of the stitches, i.e. the gauge is bigger, resulting in the bottom edge of my swatch being distorted and too wide. If you’re making a garment or a blanket and you use the same size hook for the chain as the stitches, you’re going to end up with the bottom or edge, depending on where you’ve started being much too long. So in the case of the top, it means one of your side seams will be out of proportion.
To correct the disparity between the gauges, I used a 2mm hook for the starting chain and then for row one, I switched to the 2.75mm, which gave me matching gauges. For the other swatches in this post, I only went down 0.5mm in hook size. You might need a small amount of trial an error. I am a big advocate for adding hooks in in the smaller, 0.25mm increments to your collection, because these can often be the key to getting correct gauge for garments.

Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

You can find video instructions here which includes lots of additional tips. Check the comment under the video for the timestamp, click to jump straight to the stitch pattern instructions:

Downloadable Instructions

Download a .pdf here, which includes a stitch chart : Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size. For these instructions, I am using a 4ply/sock weight yarn with 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and switching to a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.

Stitch pattern repeat

3 – so to make a larger piece of fabric, increase your starting chain in increments of 3.

TIP : Try to keep the chains true to hook size, i.e. when you crochet, keep the loop exactly the same size as the diameter of the hook, rather than extending the loop. For this particular pattern, it keeps the stitches really neat, minimizes the gaps between the tall stitches and enhances the effect of the “perforations”.

Start with the smaller hook, ch 26.

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back ridge of the chain, dc into the 4th ch from the hook, 1dc into each ch. (24sts, counting the turning ch)

Row 2 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st (which was the ch3 turning ch of Row 1). (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Note: from now on, at the start of every round, there’s going to be a ch2 turning chain. This chain is never worked into, nor is it ever counted as a stitch.

Row 3 (RS): ch2, 1dc into 1st st; *1dc in sp; 1dc into each of 2 wrapped hdcs*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; 1dc in last sp; 1dc in last st. (24sts)

Row 4 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st. (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Repeat rows 3-4 as desired, ending with a Row 3 for symmetry.

If you are swatching, make a total of 13 rows.

Hand wash your swatch in luke warm water with a mild detergent. I like to use a gentle shampoo. Do not wring. Squeeze out the excess water between two layers of a clean towel. Lay flat on a towel, gently pulling into shape to open up the stitches. You can pin it square with some stainless steel (rust free) pins if you like. Allow to dry naturally.

I hope you like my Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern – With Video Tutorial

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My biggest gripe with many modern crochet patterns for clothing is that the garments nearly always end up being too bulky, heavy and HOT…not to mention requiring an inordinate amount of yarn! So I often explore crochet stitches that are suitable for clothing because they are lacey or open whilst still retaining a structural integrity to the fabric. That’s why I love this Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern, a lacey, ripple stitch… it has solid areas and airy sections and when used in a fingering or 4ply/sock-weight yarn, it makes the perfect material for a top. And I did make 2 tops with this chevron stitch. While I was making the tops, I decided to try different coloured stripes with some fingering weight mini skeins I had and ended up making a baby blanket. I will share details for making the blanket and top later on. But first, here’s the stitch pattern!

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Instructions

Yarn Thickness & Hook Size

4ply/Fingering weight yarn – 3.5mm/E.
DK/Sport weight yarn – 4mm/G.
Worsted/Aran weight yarn – 5mm/H.

Note : hook sizes are a guide only – please use whichever hook gives you your prefered fabric, e.g. if you’re making a blanket you don’t want it to be too stiff and tight so you might opt for a slightly larger hook than usual.

What type of yarn?

This stitch pattern really comes to life after it’s been washed and blocked – the “feather” element opens up beautifully. Natural fibers with good stitch memory work best with this pattern. So wool & cotton blends are a good example. Synthetic yarns such as acrylic may not give the desired result.

In the tutorial I have used a wool & cotton blend – Cotton Merino from Mayflower.

For the colourful baby blanket, I have used 4ply Hand Dyed Superfine Merino from WitchCraftyLady on Etsy. I would really recommend this yarn, it is beautifully soft and the colours that Almas uses to dye the yarn are so joyful to work with. She’s also an excellent seller and you always receive amazing service from her.

What is stitch memory?

I’ll explain, in case you don’t know what “stitch memory” is – it means a yarn that retains the shape of the stitch you have made, rather than trying to spring back into its natural form. So fibers such as linen, cotton & wool, once washed and blocked, will open up and lock into the stitch pattern. Some synthetic fibers on the the other hand, such as acrylic, tend to spring back after washing and blocking rather than retaining some of the key features of the stitch pattern. This is particularly noticeable in stitches that are open or lacey. Having said that, you can get away with a small amount of synthetic fiber in the yarn, for example if you are using a sock yarn that has some nylon, you should still get a good result.

three colourful images showing sections of crocheted blanket in bright handdyed yarn ripple stitch

Feather & Fan Crochet Stitch Pattern

Written instructions & chart can be downloaded from my FREE Crochet Stitch Pattern Directory (opens in new tab).

Video tutorial is below:

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay 🙂

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Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Crochet Lucet Cord Tutorial

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Throughout the years I’ve taught crochet , there have been many projects where a cord is required (e.g. the mesh soap bag). There are many options for making cords and having tried various methods, I’ve found that the Crochet Lucet Cord or Four Sided Chain is my favourite option for the following reasons:

  1. You don’t need any special equipment – yes, you can make a lucet cord without a lucet!
  2. You can use the hook you’re already using for your project.
  3. The technique is easy to memorise.
  4. Once you get a rhythm going, the cord works up pretty quickly.
  5. It makes a firm and thick cord.
  6. The finished cord is flexible yet strong.
  7. It’s very attractive – it looks like a four sided chain.

Materials

  • Yarn – thicker is better for a good effect. I’m using a DK weight yarn doubled up (Paintbox Cotton DK in Melon Sorbet).
  • A crochet hook – in this example I’m using a 3.5mm hook (Clover Amour). Use a slightly smaller hook than you’d normally use for the yarn thickness otherwise the stitches in the cord can end up being too slack.

How much yarn will I need for my cord?

You’ll need about 9 x the finished length of your cord.
E.g. desired cord is 30cm /12 inches long, so I’ll need 2.7 m / 3 yards of yarn or 2 x 2.7 m / 3 yards if you’re doubling up.

Crochet Instructions

  • Wind off a separate ball of yarn from your main skein to make a double thickness thread – tie the ends together to keep them together to start with.
  • With the tail end to the left, lay the yarn on a flat surface in an “arc” shape (fig. 1).
  • Fold over the top of the arc (fig. 2) , to make 2 “loops”.
  • Insert the hook into the right loop, from above, then, coming from underneath, bring the hook up through the left loop (fig. 3) .
orange cotton dk yarn showing steps to making a crochet lucet cord
  • Pull the loops tight on the hook (fig. 4).
  • Rearrange the yarn – move the working end of the yarn over the left and hold the tail end as if to make a chain (fig. 5).
  • Yarn over and pull a loop through the first loop on the hook, i.e. ch1 with the left loop (fig. 5).
red crochet hook and orange cotton yarn showing how to make a crochet lucet cord
  • Carefully remove this loop from the hook (fig. 7).
  • Pinch this loop between your thumb and middle finger (or forefinger if you use your middle finger to feed the yarn) to stop it coming undone when you work the next stitch (fig. 8).
  • Ch1 with the right loop (fig. 9).
  • Replace the left loop on the hook (fig. 10)…
  • …and ch1 with the left loop (fig. 11).
  • Continue in this way, i.e. drop & hold left loop, ch1 right loop, replace left loop; ch1 left loop…until the cord measures desired length (fig. 12).
  • To finish off, after a ch1 left loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the left and right loops (fig. 13).
  • Cut the yarn, yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook and all the way out. Pull tight (fig. 14).
  • Tie a tight knot in each end and trim, or as in this example, you could also add a bead at each end for a decorative effect (fig. 15).
hands crocheting a lucet cord using yellow cotton yarn

TIP : To even out the cord, roll it between your fingers and pull it gently all along is length. This makes a big difference to the look of the cord – making it firmer and smoother.

You can also find a video of this technique on my YouTube channel:

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

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Granny Stitch Border, Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

(US Crochet Terminology)

Click on the link for the Three Round Solid Granny Square pattern.

As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!

To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.

At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

Materials 

Yarn : DK Cotton Yarn (Paintbox)
Hook : 3.5mm / E / 4

Key (US terminology)

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Special stitches & techniques:

  • sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
  • ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
  • join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
  • shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.

A note about joins:

A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)

Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

granny stitch crochet border & join layout

B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.

Round 1: As Motif A

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]…

granny stitch join step by step instructions

…continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].

granny stitch crochet border instructions

C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].

granny stitch join tutorial

D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]

traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs

For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.

Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

Connect with me!

I hope you found these instructions useful. If you are inspired to make a blanket after reading this post, please do let me know! You can often find me on Instagram. Please follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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