Free Crochet Patterns, Crochet Classes & Techniques

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Posh Yarn Advent Swap 2018

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Yarn Advent Swap : Last year I took part in the Posh Yarn Advent Swap. This is a really fun yarn swap for members of the Posh Yarn forum on Ravelry. The easiest way to describe what it entails is to “quote” Charlie, the organizer’s overview:

How it works:
Each participant makes 24 individually wrapped 10g mini-skeins of 4ply/sock weight Posh Yarn, which they then send to the organizer. They also send the organizer the cost of postage and packing for the return parcels (via PayPal).
Once all the parcels have been received by the organizer, they will redistribute the mini-skeins so that each participant has 24 different mini-skeins, each one from a different participant if possible. The organizer will mail the new sets of mini-skeins in plenty of time for them to arrive by 1st December.
Participants can then open one mini-skein each day, from the 1st to the 24th December (in the manner of an Advent calendar), or open them all at once. They can be knitted/crocheted up in the order opened, or saved up to arrange in a pleasing sequence.
Sharing photos of the yarn received, and the projects made, is encouraged, but is not compulsory.

charliesumx

I had plenty of Posh Yarn scraps to make 24 mini skeins, however, it did take a lot longer to hand wind, weigh and pack the skeins than I had anticipated. This year (oh yes, I am taking part in the 2019 swap!) I decided to teach myself how to make a proper mini skein which was much quicker!

A green mini skein of handdyed yarn, a vintage Christmas image of a St Lucy, a selection of crochet squares arranged in a whirl

Zero Self Control

The swap package arrived in very good time, early November if I recall correctly. I could not contain my curiosity and opened my first little yarn package right away. It was crocheted up, using a 2.5mm hook into little squares and triangles using my solid granny square and half square motif patterns.

Soon I lost ALL willpower. I became completely addicted to opening the mini parcels and crocheting up the motifs… all whilst wondering what I was going to make with them!

Three images, the first is of a stack of multicoloured crochet motifs, the second is a progress shot of the motifs being joined to make a wrap, the third image also shows a close up of the wrap, yarn and scissors

Coming Together

As it got closer to the “official” start of the calendar, i.e. the 1st December, I started to formulate a plan. I was going to make a large and cosy wrap. I already worked out that I would be able to make it 4 motifs wide by 14 long, with the square motif turned 45 degrees. I’d need 96 full motifs and 36 half motifs. I wanted to use my join-as-you-go granny stitch border and join but with a contrasting colour, Posh of course. I didn’t have the correct colour to hand. So I kept an eye out during the weekly shop updates in case something suitable cropped up. Luckily the beautiful, silvery grey and sparkly shade of “Caroline Sock” revealed herself. I snapped up a couple of skeins.

12 images showing vintage Christmas cards as a backdrop with with crocheted motifs on top

Sharing Progress

So, I’d worked out my project but then decided that I’d like to “share” a photo of the squares I’d made for each day of the advent in a unique way. I’ve always loved vintage Christmas cards so scoured the internet and collected a series of images to use as backgrounds to my “flat lays”.

I just had so much fun doing this, it really helped me get into the “festive mood” and I think everybody enjoyed me sharing my daily advent “snaps” on Instagram & on the Ravelry forum swap thread.

During December, I washed, blocked and started to join the motifs together. The project required a lot more of the Caroline yarn for the borders and joins than I had anticipated. Luckily a very kind Posh friend sent me her skein so that I could finish that section of the wrap.

left over scraps of colourful handdyed yarn & beautiful crochet border in line green and pink

The Border

I almost used up every scrap of the yarn I’d received in the swap, as well as 3 x 100g skeins of 4ply sock yarn for the joining borders. It took a long time to sew in all those ends! Most of the ends were sewn in as I went along, but it was still quite a big job.

I wanted to add a colourful border and found a beautiful pink and lime green in my stash that looked fabulous together. Initially I was planning on a simple border but I swear it almost crocheted itself into beautiful scallops and a line of surface slip stitch.

Finally I finished the “yarn advent swap” wrap at the end of January 2019. I loved every minute of this swap and project. It was so inspiring to watch the rest of the group share their yarns & projects. Sadly, I am not 100% happy with the finished object. It is certainly very beautiful and showcases Tony, from Posh Yarn’s, amazing dyeing skills but the end result was much too big and heavy to be worn as a wrap. I do use the wrap as a kind of blanket when I’m sat on the sofa and I’m a bit chilly – I drape it over my shoulders. But I’m not able to wear it with my winter coat as planned.

woman holding and wearing a large hand crocheted wrap made from mini skeins from an advent swap

All The Yarn Details

If you want to know more about the yarn bases and colourways I used, you can find those in my Ravelry project page.

The Dilemma

So… I am still considering whether to just continue using it as a lapghan. Maybe I should frog sections of it to make it smaller. I think the ideal size would be 4 motifs wide by 12 motifs long. Maybe even with just one row of granny stitch border join. This would make it considerably lighter and more wearable. Or perhaps start from scratch and make a new, smaller and lighter version, using basically the same pattern and layout? I’m also thinking going up a hook size, even to 2.75mm AND making it narrower & shorter would make everything lighter? What do you think I should do? And have you ever participated in a yarn advent swap? What did you make or are you still cherishing your little skeins?

Tapestry Crochet – Day Course

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I ran several 5 week tapestry crochet courses at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames where my students were able to make a full sized “Columbian bag” over the course of the weeks. They learnt all the basic techniques and were then encouraged to design their own bag or make one from a pattern. After many requests, I am now able to offer a Tapestry Crochet Day Course where you can learn some of the techniques used to create a Wayuu or “mochila” style bag. I have designed a cotton “mini-bag” project that incorporates many of these techniques so the student can practise and master this beautiful and very useful, crochet art-form.

Course Overview

  • Brief overview of bag construction & materials used.
  • How the bottom of the bag is made and basic principles of base design.
  • Getting started with your own bag.
  • Adding and changing colours – mastering the tapestry crochet stitch.
  • Making the sides of the bag – reading charts, designing your own patterns.
  • How to manage multiple skeins of yarn without tangling.
  • Making eyelets for the cord fastening.
  • Using crab stitch or reverse single crochet borders to reinforce and add stability and shape to the top and bottom of the bag.
  • Mastering two coloured crab stitch or reverse single crochet.
  • Making a simple cord.
  • How to make quick and easy tassels.
  • Tips for lining the bags.
  • Design options – examples of & ideas for projects using tapestry stitch.
three images showing the start of a crochet tapestry back, detail of a chevron design and tassels on a wayuu style bag

Schedule

Typically, the course is 5 hours long, with a 1 hour lunch break.
e.g. 10:00 – 12:30 Crochet, 12:30 – 13:30 Lunch, 13:30 – 16:00 Crochet

Class Size

I teach a maximum of 8 students in one class.

Class Format

All my classes come with detailed class notes and pattern. I provide samples and practical demonstrations of all techniques, helping and encouraging students with hands on assistance so that they can feel confident with their new found skills. Along with the class notes, the students should be able to continue & complete their mini project in the comfort of their own home, with relative ease. I am also happy to offer help by email, after the course, should any student have any questions.

Skill Level

Students must be competent with basic crochet techniques, particularly chaining & single crochet (UK double).

Three images showing crochet tutor and student, example of class notes and student crocheting a bag during class

Materials & Tools

I provide suitable cotton yarn for the project – I have a large selection of colours to choose from, so there should be something to suit all tastes.
The students will also need locking stitch markers and 2.5mm crochet hooks.
I can provide all of the above separately or as a kit, which can be incorporated into the overall cost of the course or as an extra payment on the day, per student.

Areas Covered

I am based in Surrey, and I’m willing to travel to London and most of the home counties. I have taught in Buckinghamshire, London, Berkshire, Middlesex & Sussex. I’ am always happy to consider locations further afield.

Fees & Availability

Please message me through my contact form for my fee structure and availability for this Tapestry Crochet Day Course.

Three Little Bowls – Free Crochet Pattern

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Little bowl free crochet pattern. I wrote this pattern about 5 years ago when I was teaching a day class for the Surrey Women’s Institute. Since then, I have often used it for 2 hour “taster” classes. Don’t worry – it won’t take you 2 hours to make one of these little bowls! I have made the smaller one in less than 30 minutes. For beginners, it’s great for introducing students to the magic ring and also showing how you can create shaping by increasing and decreasing, or rather, more precisely in the case of this pattern, using a tighter stitch to achieve the same result as a decreasing round. For more experienced crocheters, it’s simply a quick, fun and satisfying little project that returns a utilitarian result. More recently I taught a private class to three ladies at a clients house. This time, I had experimented with multiple strands of yarn and different hook sizes. Each bowl uses the exact same pattern but with a different number of strands of Aran yarn and subsequent hook size. I was so delighted with the different results you can get, simply by adding a strand of yarn and going up a hook size that I thought I’d share the pattern with you all.

I hope you enjoy making these little bowls as much as we did!

For a printable pattern which includes a photo tutorial, or to download and save onto your device, please click here for the US & British version.

Psst… if you like this, you might also like my Mini Basket pattern, which is a spin-off of these little bowls…

Image of completed Crochet Bowls

PATTERN (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

  • Aran Weight Yarn in 2 colours – A & B (you could also try this with 3 different colours) In total, all three bowls use approx. 84 m / 92 yds.
  • Hooks – 4.5mm, 6mm & 7mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Locking stitch marker.

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • prev – previous
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round
  • sc – single crochet
  • st s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

  • Single strand dish : Approx 7cm across & 4.5cm high.
  • Double stranded dish : Approx 9cm across & 5.5cm high.
  • Triple stranded dish :Approx 12cm across &8cm high.

Crochet Instructions

Basic Little Dish Pattern (for detailed instructions, download the printable pattern)

Using the 4.5mm hook & one strand of yarn A, start with a magic ring. Alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; do not join – 24 dc.
Place marker in last stitch. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, place marker in the last stitch to help mark the end of the row. Remove the marker when you come to work the stitch and replace when you have made the last stitch.

Rnd 3:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of prev rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 7 times; inc in last st – 32 sc

Rnd 4:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 7 times; inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts – 40 sc

Rnds 5-9:
sc in each st – 40 sc ⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨*

Rnd 10:
sl st in the back loop of each st.
Finish off and weave in all ends.

Double Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 2 strands of yarn B held together & a 6mm hook.

Triple Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 3 strands of yarn (2 of yarn B & 1 of yarn A) held together & a 7mm hook.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Make to sell

You may make these bowls to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

crochet three strands together

I love to see people’s projects and I encourage you to share the photos of your finished items or WIPS on Instagram using #mezzacraft

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Mini Basket – Free Crochet Pattern

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Mini basket, free crochet pattern. This handy little crocheted basket design with handles, is a spin off from my “Three Little Bowls” pattern. A quick and simple pattern, this small basket uses three strands of Aran or Worsted weight yarns, held together. You could use three strands of the same colour or three different colours, for a lovely variegated effect. I love using multiple colours because each stitch is unique, depending on how the strands of yarn fall in place. I have used 3 x 50g balls of Drops Alaska (100% wool) in the colours Mustard (58), Light Grey Mix (03) & Off White (02).

It’s an ideal container for knick-knacks, face towels, hair accessories or small toiletries. This little basket is also an ideal craft stall make – sell empty or fill with treats. As with most of my free patterns, you’re welcome to make these to sell, either online or at craft fairs – all I ask is that you include a small tag or piece of paper, acknowledging that the pattern came from www.mezzacraft.com.

The pattern works up quickly and is an ideal “stash buster”!

For printable patterns, or to download and save onto your device, please click here – you’ll also find a version with British crochet terminology.

Warning : this crochet pattern is addictive!

three images of crochet basket with aran yarn

Pattern (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round sc – single crochet
  • t(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

Finished basket is approximately 19cm / 7 ½ “ wide and 9cm / 3 ½ “ tall

Crochet Instructions

Work holding 3 strands of yarn together.

Start with a magic ring, alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; make 1 dc in sl st join from prev rnd; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3 – 25 dc.

Rnd 3:

Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; (1dc in next st, 2dc in next) 12 times; 2dc in last st; DO NOT JOIN – 38 dc.

Place marker in last stitch to help mark the end of the row. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, remove the marker when you need to work into the last stitch and then replace it when you’ve worked the last stitch.

Rnd 4:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of previous rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 12 times; 1sc in each of rem 2 sts – 50 sc

Rnd 5:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 12 times; 1sc in last st – 62 sc

Rnds 6-12:
Sc in each st – 62 sc ⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩⑪⑫*

Rnd 13:

1sc in each of next 6sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 14:

1sc in each of next 6sts; make 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 15:
sl st in the back loop of each st.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Disclosure : my posts can contain affiliated links from which I may receive a small referral fee should you happen to purchase anything.

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

New 4 Week Learn To Crochet Course – 19th January – 9th February 2019

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Do you want to learn to crochet?
I am running a new beginner’s course at the Riverhouse Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames starting January 2019.

This course is for you if :

  • You have never crocheted before.
  • You have crocheted in the past but are a bit rusty or you would like to build your confidence with basic stitches.
  • You are self taught either from books and/or the internet and want to clarify areas that you are unsure of or worried that you might be doing incorrectly.

I use a specially developed small project to teach you how to make a solid granny square.
You will learn all the essential techniques that can be applied to most basic projects such as:

  • choosing the right size hook and yarn
  • how to hold your hook and yarn
  • chaining
  • slip stitch, single & double crochet
  • how to make a square
  • how to change colours
  • how to join motifs using sewing and crochet
  • how to make a cord
  • how to finish off

The course includes:
4 x 2 hour practical classes, spread over 4 weeks.
Detailed class notes including photos to help you practise at home.
Email support during the duration of the course.

Course dates:
Saturday 15th September 2018 – Saturday 8th October 2018, 15:30 – 17:30.

Week 1: Saturday 19th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30
Week 2: Saturday 26th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 3: Saturday 2nd February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 4: Saturday 9th February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.

Please note: You can still get a lot out of the course, even if you have to skip some of the weeks, however,  Week 1 & Week 2 are obligatory.

Cost: £50

Booking:
Please complete the online booking form from here. Full payment of the course is required to secure your place and places are given on a “first paid” basis

Materials required:
3.5mm crochet hook.
200g of DK cotton yarn, preferably in at least two different colours. I would strongly recommend using Stylecraft Classique Cotton or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. (Acrylic, chunky and novelty yarns are not the best choice for learning).
Wool/tapestry needle.

I can provide the materials above as a starter kit for £12 which can be purchased at the first class (please order beforehand).

This is a great way to learn a new hobby in a friendly setting where you can meet other students with similar interests as well as supporting your local arts centre!

To express an interest or for more details, please contact me.

I also list my classes on Meetup.

Half Motif – Three Round Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

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half solid granny square triangle crochet motif turquoiseThree Round Solid Granny Square Half Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

This half square crochet pattern features in my Blue Buoy blanket pattern and it’s used to fill the edges and make the corners of the blanket.  I really love how turning a simple square motif through 90 degrees gives a whole new look!

You can find instructions for the full square by clicking here.

Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

This motif is worked flat, i.e. turning each row.

ch5, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Row 1 : ch 3 (counts as 1dc in this and all subsequent rounds); 4dc in ring; ch2; 5dc in ring. (2x 5dc sts & 1x ch2 sp)

Row 2 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 4sts; 3dc in last st. (2x 9dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

Row 3 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 8sts; 3dc in last st. Fasten off. (2x 13dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

 

 

In upcoming posts I’ll be showing you how to make the granny stitch joins and also how to crochet the border.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

 

 

Three Round Solid Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

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Three Round Solid Granny Square Full Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

Three Row Solid Granny Square Blanket Motif - Free Crochet Pattern

This simple crochet square is quick and easy to make and is a great foundation for many projects, including my Blue Buoy blanket, named after one of my favourite places in my home town, Porthleven.

It’s a great way to use up scraps of yarn and it’s pretty easy to adjust the size, making the square bigger by adding extra rounds.
I’ve used one of my favourite yarns for baby blankets – Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which comes in an amazing array of colours. My squares, using a 3.5mm hook come out at about 8cm / 3 inches across. Each square uses 4g or 1.6 metres of yarn (so I can get about 12 squares out of each ball). The size of your square and yardage may vary depending on your gauge.

The colours I’ve used for the squares in my blanket are as follow:

Sky Blue (439), Lime Green (429), Marine Blue (434), Washed Teal (433) & Dolphin Blue (437).

Here’s the basic pattern for the three row version:

Required Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Crochet Instructions

The motif is worked in the round.

ch4, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Round 1 : ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp – please see note below); (4dc in ring; ch2) 3 times; 3dc in ring and join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (4x 4dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

note: often 1dc & a ch2 space is represented by a chain 5 – I find this leaves a really big hole at the beginning of the round. To address this, I switch to a ch4 and when I come to finish off the round, sl st in the 3rd chain. You can either ch4 or ch5 – please use whichever looks best with your style of crochet – this applies to the start of all the rounds!

Round 2 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (4x 8dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Round 3 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. Fasten off. (4x 12dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Click here for my free crochet pattern for my three round solid granny half motif.

Variations

You could also make this solid granny square crochet pattern using different weights of yarn, below are suggestions of the hook size :

  • 4ply / Sock Yarn – 3mm/C/2
  • Aran / Worsted Yarn – 5mm/H/8

Remember, the yardage and size of the finished motif will vary.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go

The instructions for the granny stitch border and join can be found here.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join

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Join as you go crochet technique for the Start Flower crochet motifI’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.

Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!

Anyway, here you go…

I have also written up some instructions and a chart.

Joining the Main Star Flower Motif

(US crochet terminology)

Materials 

3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)

Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.

 

Crochet Instructions

Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop. 

Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.

You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.

Motif 1…Make one complete motif.

Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!

ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…

Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!

Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends and block into shape.

Video:

 

crochet chart showing final round for joining motifs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Join As You Go” crochet tips

 

If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:

1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!

 

Explore Broomstick Crochet – 5 week course

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For our next project, we’ll be learning about “Broomstick Crochet”. This is a fun & easy technique that works up quickly. After the first couple of weeks you should have built up enough skills in the technique to tackle something simple like a shawl or wrap or even challenge yourself with something a little more complex such as a garment. Either way, I’m sure you’ll be glad you tried this very enjoyable crochet technique.

We’ll be covering:

  1. The types of yarn that work best with broomstick crochet.
  2. Classic peacock eye stitch and straight stitch.
  3. Cross stitch and mountain stitch.
  4. Combining standard crochet stitches with broomstick.
  5. Increasing and decreasing.
  6. Seaming.
  7. Basic garment construction.

Duration: 5 weeks
Dates: 11th June – 9th July 2018
Time/date: 8:00-10:00pm every Monday
Venue: The Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre, Walton-on-Thames, KT12 2PF

Cost: £50 (for 5 weeks) – not including materials

All you need for the first class is some yarn – something easy to work with, such as DK cotton, but do also bring any other yarn you might have as this technique can look good in a variety of yarns. DK, aran, worsted or even a chunky yarn and colour changing yarn can also look great. There are lots of ways to experiment with this once you’ve got the hang of it. However, as usual, I would avoid black & very dark yarns as it’s difficult to see what’s what.

I will bring the Broomstick needles – they are £2.53 each – size 20mm.
Also, please bring a range of hooks suitable for the yarn you have… i.e. 3-4mm for DK, 4-5mm for worsted & 6-7mm for chunky.

Booking form is here: https://goo.gl/forms/vxdQmkjqjlkfHXdf2

Please get in touch if you have any questions – mezzamay at icloud dot com