Free Crochet Patterns, Crochet Classes & Techniques

crochet

Three Little Bowls – Free Crochet Pattern

//  by //  7 Comments

I wrote this “Little Bowls Free Crochet Pattern” about 5 years ago when I was teaching a day class for the Surrey Women’s Institute. Since then, I have often used it for 2 hour “taster” classes. Don’t worry – it won’t take you 2 hours to make one of these little bowls! I have made the smaller one in less than 30 minutes. For beginners, it’s great for introducing students to the magic ring and also showing how you can create shaping by increasing and decreasing, or rather, more precisely in the case of this pattern, using a tighter stitch to achieve the same result as a decreasing round. For more experienced crocheters, it’s simply a quick, fun and satisfying little project that returns a utilitarian result. More recently I taught a private class to three ladies at a clients house. This time, I had experimented with multiple strands of yarn and different hook sizes. Each bowl uses the exact same pattern but with a different number of strands of Aran or worsted weight yarn and subsequent hook size. I was so delighted with the different results you can get, simply by adding a strand of yarn and going up a hook size that I thought I’d share the pattern with you all.

I hope you enjoy making these little bowls as much as we did!

For a printable pattern which includes a photo tutorial, or to download and save onto your device, please click here for the US & British version.

For a video tutorial, showing full instructions to make the Little Bowls Free Crochet Pattern, please scroll down to the end of the page.

Psst… if you like this, you might also like my Mini Basket pattern, which is a spin-off of these little bowls…

Image of completed three Little Bowls Free Crochet Pattern

PATTERN (US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

  • Aran Weight Yarn in 2 colours – A & B (you could also try this with 3 different colours) In total, all three bowls use approx. 84 m / 92 yds.
  • Hooks – 4.5mm, 6mm & 7mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Locking stitch marker.

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • prev – previous
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round
  • sc – single crochet
  • st s) – stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

  • Single strand dish : Approx 7cm across & 4.5cm high.
  • Double stranded dish : Approx 9cm across & 5.5cm high.
  • Triple stranded dish :Approx 12cm across &8cm high.

Instructions for Little Bowls Free Crochet Pattern

Basic Little Dish Pattern (for detailed instructions, download the printable pattern)

Using the 4.5mm hook & one strand of yarn A, start with a magic ring. Alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; do not join – 24 dc.
Place marker in last stitch. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, place marker in the last stitch to help mark the end of the row. Remove the marker when you come to work the stitch and replace when you have made the last stitch.

Rnd 3:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of prev rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 7 times; inc in last st – 32 sc

Rnd 4:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 7 times; inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts – 40 sc

Rnds 5-9:
sc in each st – 40 sc ⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨*

Rnd 10:
sl st in the back loop of each st.
Finish off and weave in all ends.

Double Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 2 strands of yarn B held together & a 6mm hook.

Triple Stranded Little Dish Pattern
Make as the Basic Little Dish pattern, but use 3 strands of yarn (2 of yarn B & 1 of yarn A) held together & a 7mm hook.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Little Bowl Free Crochet Pattern – Video

Make to sell

You may make these bowls to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

crochet three strands together to make Little Bowls Free Crochet Pattern

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Tag your work #mezzacraft.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Mini Basket Free Crochet Pattern

//  by //  2 Comments

Mini basket, free crochet pattern. This handy little crocheted basket design with handles, is a spin off from my “Three Little Bowls” pattern. A quick and simple pattern, this small basket uses three strands of Aran or Worsted weight yarns, held together. You could use three strands of the same colour or three different colours, for a lovely variegated effect. I love using multiple colours because each stitch is unique, depending on how the strands of yarn fall in place. I have used 3 x 50g balls of Drops Alaska (100% wool) in the colours Mustard (58), Light Grey Mix (03) & Off White (02).

It’s an ideal container for knick-knacks, face towels, hair accessories or small toiletries. This little basket is also an ideal craft stall make – sell empty or fill with treats. As with most of my free patterns, you’re welcome to make these to sell, either online or at craft fairs – all I ask is that you include a small tag or piece of paper, acknowledging that the pattern came from www.mezzacraft.com.

The pattern works up quickly and is an ideal “stash buster”!

For printable patterns, or to download and save onto your device, please click here – you’ll also find a version with British crochet terminology.

Warning : this crochet pattern is addictive!

mini basket free crochet pattern - baskets made in aran & worsted yarn in orchre, grey and cream wook.

Pattern for Mini Basket Free Crochet Pattern
(US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round sc – single crochet
  • t(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

Finished basket is approximately 19cm / 7 ½ “ wide and 9cm / 3 ½ “ tall

Crochet Instructions

Work holding 3 strands of yarn together.

Start with a magic ring, alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; make 1 dc in sl st join from prev rnd; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3 – 25 dc.

Rnd 3:

Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; (1dc in next st, 2dc in next) 12 times; 2dc in last st; DO NOT JOIN – 38 dc.

Place marker in last stitch to help mark the end of the row. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, remove the marker when you need to work into the last stitch and then replace it when you’ve worked the last stitch.

Rnd 4:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of previous rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 12 times; 1sc in each of rem 2 sts – 50 sc

Rnd 5:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 12 times; 1sc in last st – 62 sc

Rnds 6-12:
Sc in each st – 62 sc ⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩⑪⑫*

Rnd 13:

1sc in each of next 6sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 14:

1sc in each of next 6sts; make 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 15:
sl st in the back loop of each st.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

//  by //  1 Comment

Granny Stitch Border, Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

//  by //  Leave a Comment

I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

New 4 Week Learn To Crochet Course – 19th January – 9th February 2019

//  by //  Leave a Comment

Do you want to learn to crochet?
I am running a new beginner’s course at the Riverhouse Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames starting January 2019.

This course is for you if :

  • You have never crocheted before.
  • You have crocheted in the past but are a bit rusty or you would like to build your confidence with basic stitches.
  • You are self taught either from books and/or the internet and want to clarify areas that you are unsure of or worried that you might be doing incorrectly.

I use a specially developed small project to teach you how to make a solid granny square.
You will learn all the essential techniques that can be applied to most basic projects such as:

  • choosing the right size hook and yarn
  • how to hold your hook and yarn
  • chaining
  • slip stitch, single & double crochet
  • how to make a square
  • how to change colours
  • how to join motifs using sewing and crochet
  • how to make a cord
  • how to finish off

The course includes:
4 x 2 hour practical classes, spread over 4 weeks.
Detailed class notes including photos to help you practise at home.
Email support during the duration of the course.

Course dates:
Saturday 15th September 2018 – Saturday 8th October 2018, 15:30 – 17:30.

Week 1: Saturday 19th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30
Week 2: Saturday 26th January 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 3: Saturday 2nd February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.
Week 4: Saturday 9th February 2019, 15:30 – 17:30.

Please note: You can still get a lot out of the course, even if you have to skip some of the weeks, however,  Week 1 & Week 2 are obligatory.

Cost: £50

Booking:
Please complete the online booking form from here. Full payment of the course is required to secure your place and places are given on a “first paid” basis

Materials required:
3.5mm crochet hook.
200g of DK cotton yarn, preferably in at least two different colours. I would strongly recommend using Stylecraft Classique Cotton or Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. (Acrylic, chunky and novelty yarns are not the best choice for learning).
Wool/tapestry needle.

I can provide the materials above as a starter kit for £12 which can be purchased at the first class (please order beforehand).

This is a great way to learn a new hobby in a friendly setting where you can meet other students with similar interests as well as supporting your local arts centre!

To express an interest or for more details, please contact me.

I also list my classes on Meetup.

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

//  by //  6 Comments

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

(US Crochet Terminology)

Click on the link for the Three Round Solid Granny Square pattern.

As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!

To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.

At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

Materials 

Yarn : DK Cotton Yarn (Paintbox)
Hook : 3.5mm / E / 4

Key (US terminology)

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Special stitches & techniques:

  • sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
  • ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
  • join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
  • shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.

A note about joins:

A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)

Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

granny stitch crochet border & join layout

B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.

Round 1: As Motif A

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]…

granny stitch join step by step instructions

…continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].

granny stitch crochet border instructions

C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].

granny stitch join tutorial

D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]

traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs

For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.

Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

Connect with me!

I hope you found these instructions useful. If you are inspired to make a blanket after reading this post, please do let me know! You can often find me on Instagram. Please follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi. Buy me a coffee!

Half Motif – Three Round Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

//  by //  3 Comments

half solid granny square triangle crochet motif turquoise

Three Round Solid Granny Square Half Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

This half square crochet pattern features in my Blue Buoy blanket pattern and it’s used to fill the edges and make the corners of the blanket.  I really love how turning a simple square motif through 90 degrees gives a whole new look!

You can find instructions for the full square by clicking here.

Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

 

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

This motif is worked flat, i.e. turning each row.

ch5, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Row 1 : ch 3 (counts as 1dc in this and all subsequent rounds); 4dc in ring; ch2; 5dc in ring. (2x 5dc sts & 1x ch2 sp)

Row 2 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 4sts; 3dc in last st. (2x 9dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

Row 3 : ch3, TURN WORK; 2dc in first st; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made;  1dc in each of next 8sts; 3dc in last st. Fasten off. (2x 13dc sts & 1x ch2 sps)

For the “join as you go” instructions for these motifs, please click here for the full motifs and here for the half-motifs.

Video Tutorial 

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Three Round Solid Granny Square – Free Crochet Pattern

//  by //  6 Comments

Three Round Solid Granny Square Full Motif –  Crochet Pattern
(US Crochet Terminology)

Three Row Solid Granny Square Blanket Motif - Free Crochet Pattern

This simple crochet square is quick and easy to make and is a great foundation for many projects, including my Blue Buoy blanket, named after one of my favourite places in my home town, Porthleven.

It’s a great way to use up scraps of yarn and it’s pretty easy to adjust the size, making the square bigger by adding extra rounds.
I’ve used one of my favourite yarns for baby blankets – Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which comes in an amazing array of colours. My squares, using a 3.5mm hook come out at about 8cm / 3 inches across. Each square uses 4g or 1.6 metres of yarn (so I can get about 12 squares out of each ball). The size of your square and yardage may vary depending on your gauge.

The colours I’ve used for the squares in my blanket are as follow:

Sky Blue (439), Lime Green (429), Marine Blue (434), Washed Teal (433) & Dolphin Blue (437).

Required Materials
3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

NEW 29/09/23

YouTube Video Instructions!

Here’s the basic pattern for the three row version:

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

 

Crochet Instructions

The motif is worked in the round.

ch4, join with sl st in first chain to form a ring.

Round 1 : ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp – please see note below); (4dc in ring; ch2) 3 times; 3dc in ring and join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. (4x 4dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

note: often 1dc & a ch2 space is represented by a chain 5 – I find this leaves a really big hole at the beginning of the round. To address this, I switch to a ch4 and when I come to finish off the round, sl st in the 3rd chain. You can either ch4 or ch5 – please use whichever looks best with your style of crochet – this applies to the start of all the rounds!

Round 2 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 4sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 4sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (4x 8dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Round 3 : sl st into ch2 sp; ch 4 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp), 2dc in same sp – partial corner made; (1dc in each of next 8sts; in ch2 corner sp – 2dc, ch2, 2dc – corner made) 3 times; 1dc in each of rem 8sts; in first corner – dc; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. Fasten off. (4x 12dc sts & 4x ch2 sps)

Click here for my free crochet pattern for my three round solid granny half motif.

Variations

You could also make this solid granny square crochet pattern using different weights of yarn, below are suggestions of the hook size :

  • 4ply / Sock Yarn – 3mm/C/2
  • Aran / Worsted Yarn – 5mm/H/8

Remember, the yardage and size of the finished motif will vary.

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go

The instructions for the granny stitch border and join can be found here.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join

//  by //  2 Comments

Join as you go crochet technique for the Start Flower crochet motifI’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.

Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!

Anyway, here you go…

I have also written up some instructions and a chart.

Joining the Main Star Flower Motif

(US crochet terminology)

Materials 

3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)

Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.

 

Crochet Instructions

Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop. 

Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.

You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.

Motif 1…Make one complete motif.

Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!

ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…

Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!

Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends and block into shape.

Video:

 

crochet chart showing final round for joining motifs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Join As You Go” crochet tips

 

If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:

1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!

 

Rainbow Heirloom Little Square Crochet Motif – Free Pattern

//  by //  Leave a Comment

I bought two bundles of Solo Light Minis by Rainbow Heirloom, on a whim when I saw them on Ysolda Teague’s website at the end of 2017. Although I love bright and cheerful colours, I tend to shy away from them, especially if I have to work out colour combinations on my own. It’s something I don’t feel confident doing, so when I saw these gorgeous mini skeins, with colour combinations already put together, I just couldn’t resist!

Straight away, I knew I’d like to make a scarf or wrap, made with lots of little motifs. The result is this little crochet square. I had a few people ask about the pattern on my Instagram feed, so here it is! There is also a free video tutorial for making this little motif. Please scroll down to the end of the post.

Little Rainbow Square Crochet Motif – Pattern

(US Crochet Terminology)

Materials
2.5mm/C/2 hook (I love Clover Amour Hooks)
Sock / Fingering Weight Single Ply 100% Superwash Merino Wool (or comparable)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
cl – cluster
dc – double crochet
esc – extended single crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Special Stitches
esc (extended single crochet) – insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, chain one, yarn over, draw off both loops on hook (to see how to make an esc, see video at 2:07).
ch3 picot – ch3, slip stitch into the single crochet previously made as follows – hold the ch3 to the back, out of the way, insert hook through both loops of the stitch from back to front, draw up a loop through the single crochet and the loop on the hook, gently pull tight to make a neat picot (to see how to make an ch3 picot, see video at 11:38).
ch4 picot – ch4, slip stitch, from front to back into the back ridge of the first chain made which is easy to find as it looks like a hole at the top of the cluster (to see how to make an ch4 picot, see video at 11:00).
6dc cl (6 double crochet cluster) – yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yarn over and draw off all 7 loops on hook (to see how to make an 6dc cl, see video at 10:00).

Crochet Instructions

Note:
This pattern incorporates two slightly different picot stitches – both are described in the special stitch section and in the pattern.

With colour A, ch4 and join to form a ring.
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 8esc, finish round, skip 1st esc & sew round closed with an invisible join in 2nd esc. (8 sts)
Note – if this way doesn’t look neat, you can try it this way:
Row 1 : ch1, into the ring, 7esc, finish round, make last “stitch” by sewing the round closed with an invisible join in 1st esc. (8 sts)
Row 2 : join colour B, ch3, dc in same st; 2dc in each of the next 7 sts ;join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3. (16 sts)
Row 3 : ch1, sc in same st, make a ch3 picot as follows – ch3 and sl st, inserting hook from the back to the front of the sc just made); ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc cluster stitch as follows – (yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw though 2 loops) 6 times, yo and draw off all 7 loops on hook ; make a ch4 picot as follows – ch4, sl st, from front to back, into the back ridge of the 1st ch (this presents itself as the hole at the top of the cluster); (ch4, sk1dc; sc in next st and make a ch3 picot; ch4, sk1dc; in next dc make a 6dc bobble, make a ch4 picot in the top of the bobble st just made) 3 times; ch3 & join with sl st into 1st sc of rnd.

Supporting video tutorial here:

Crochet chart:


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m currently working on a post and video which goes over how to join the motifs.

Star Flower Crochet Motif – Free Pattern

//  by //  6 Comments

My free Star Flower crochet motif is a relatively easy, four round pattern that I designed specifically to be economic with yarn. Hence the nice, open construction means I’m using less of my expensive yarn!

I wanted to make another crochet motif tunic dress to wear either with leggings or over a slip. A while ago I purchased a job lot of Debbie Bliss Luxury Silk DK yarn on ebay for quite a good price. At first, I didn’t have an intended project for it. I usually make something to wear to the Unravel festival at Farnham Maltings and I did plan, 5 days before the festival, to make a tunic from the lovely silk yarn. Needless to say, with all my other commitments, this was rather unrealistic. Additionally I ran out of yarn.

So, instead (now that the extra yarn has arrived!) I have decided to share my process of making the tunic as I get a lot of interest from crocheters and non-crocheters alike whenever I wear one of my tunics. Therefore, I’ll initiate the series today with the basic starting motif.

I’ve put together written instructions (which will be available as a download from Ravelry), a chart (just a rough sketch, I’m afraid!) and a video. The video is really intended as a companion to the written pattern & chart.

If you’ve had a go at making this motif, please do let me know! I love to see what people have been up to! If you use Instagram, you can follow me @mezzamay, please tag your photos #mezzacraft.

Thank you!

Star Flower Crochet Motif (Main) – Pattern

(US crochet terminology)

Materials
4mm/G/6 hook
DK 100% Silk Yarn (or comparable)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

Finished dimensions: 12cm or 4 3/4 inches.

Crochet Instructions

Ch6 and join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 : ch3 (counts as 1dc & ch1 sp); into the ring – (hdc, ch1) 7 times; join with sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch3. (8 x hdc, 8 x ch1 sps)
Round 2 : ch10 (counts as 1hdc & ch8); (sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch6; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch8) 3 times; sk 1ch, hdc in next st; ch2, tr in 2nd ch of beg ch10. (4 x ch8 sps, 4 x ch6 sps)

Round 3 : ch5 (counts as 1dc & ch2 sp); in ch6 sp – dc, hdc, ch1; sl st in 2nd ch of beg ch10 from prev rnd; (in ch8 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch4, tr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; in ch 6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, ch1; sl st in next hdc) 3 times; in ch8 sp – sc, hdc, 2dc, ch1, tr, ch4, tr, ch1, 2dc, hdc, sc; sl st in next hdc; complete the final petal, in the ch6 sp – ch1, hdc, dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch5. (4 x long petals with ch4 sp at tip, 4 x short petals with ch2 sp at tip)
Round 4 : ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 3 times; ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.
Sew in ends and wet block.

The supporting video can be found here:

And here’s a chart in case you prefer that:

Click here for instructions for the half motif.

Click here for instructions on how to join the motifs.

Disclosure : I use affiliate links for my favourite yarns and other accessories!

Tunisian Crochet Entrelac – 5 week course

//  by //  Leave a Comment

learn tunisian crochet surreyLearn the various different methods of creating Tunisian Crochet Entrelac. This technique can seem complicated at first, but once you get the hang of it, it’s very satisfying!

Duration: 5 weeks
Dates: 19th February – 19th March 2018
Time/date: 8:00-10:00pm every Monday
Venue: The Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre, Walton-on-Thames
Cost: £50 (for 5 weeks)
We’ll be learning tunisian crochet entrelac to make a small blanket or cushion cover.

Techniques covered:

  1. Corner to corner Tunisian Entrelac.
  2. Tunisian Entrelac worked in rows.
  3. Tunisian Entrelac from the centre out.
  4. Log cabin border.

We’ll also explore how gradient/striped yarns work up in entrelac.

As usual, all my classes come with photo-tutorial class notes that you will receive either by email or hard copy so that you can practise between classes.

Skill level:
You should have a grasp of basic tunisian crochet skills, in particular tunisian simple stitch, casting on and off. I will go over the basics again as a refresher in the first class.

Materials required:
– 5mm tunisian crochet hook (or hook size that works best with your yarn)
– Minimum of 2 x 100g DK yarn of your choice. One being a gradient or striped yarn. Please avoid novelty yarns & yarns with too much texture.
– Wool/tapestry needle.

Or contact me at mezzamay at icloud dot com if you’d like me to email you one.