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Cartwheels & Clovers Crochet Top – 3ply Linen Version

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Recent updates to this page:

02/08/23 – Page created

Thank you so much for showing an interest in my crochet work. I really appreciate your support and I’m happy to share some of my processes here with you in case you fancy having a go yourself at making a top using the motif.

***THIS PAGE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS***

My pattern has not been tested or tech edited. If you embark on the creative journey of crocheting a garment with these notes, please see these instructions as more of a “recipe” to help you make your own unique item.

I will be editing and adding tips, videos and photo tutorials to this page so if you come back once in a while, you might find more useful stuff.

Project Overview – Green Linen Top

Construction : square motifs which are connected with the “join as you go” method in the last round. Neck shaping is created with partial motifs.
Simple borders on the neck, arms & hem.
The side seams have a “shared motif”, meaning a full motif wraps around with half the motif on the front panel and half on the back.
Shape & Fit : a loose, rectangular, sleeveless tee with split hems. I measure 91cm/36 inches around the chest and I’m about 171cm/5′ 7″ tall.
Finished Size : 68cm / 26.7″ across, 136cm / 53.5″ around chest, 58cm /22.8″ long.
Materials : 3 x 100g skeins (1,350 metres / 1,476 yards) of Lithuanian Linen from Midwinter Yarns in Avocado.
Tools : 2.25mm hook & locking stitch markers.

Resources

Scroll down to find a list of videos and pdf tutorials currently available. I recommend using the written instructions in conjunction with the videos (where available).

Choosing Your Yarn & Hook Size

Because these are quite large motifs with some relatively large open spaces, I would not recommend using anything thicker than 4py for making a garment. The thinner the yarn, the more flexibility you will have with sizing. These notes cover making the top in 3ply/heavy lace but you can apply the same principles if you use 2ply/laceweight or any of the finer crochet threads which will probably give even better results.

Swatching

You will need to start by making a swatch of 2×2 motifs.
As a guide:
For the 3ply/heavy lace yarn, I have used a 2.25mm hook.
Hook size will vary from person to person depending on your gauge, the way you crochet and how “thick” your yarn is within it’s given yarn group, which can vary from one brand to the next, i.e. some 4ply could almost be classed as DK and some are very thin 4ply, could almost be a heavy lace weight.

This part is really important : You will need to wash, block and allow your 4 motif section to dry before measuring so that you have the most accurate measurements. Check the size of your motifs. If you want to make the same size as mine, your squares will need to come out the same size.

Motifs & Join

You can find the main motif and joining techniques by clicking on the links below. Note: these are for the 4ply version but are no different for this 3ply version, however, the layout and some of the motifs are different:

Downloadable pdf for motif & joining technique.
Video for motif.
Video for joining.

Schematics, Layouts & Construction

Here are some details about the tops I have made, including overall sizes, placement of motifs and yarn weights/yardage and hook sizes:

General advice (video), made before I had completed the 3ply version, so this will be updated eventually.
Layout & Construction (pdf) – Summary for 3ply Version.

Neck Shaping

Neck motifs & border (pdf).
Neck motifs & border (video), see below.

Split Motif

This motif is used for making the split in the sides of the hem if you are using half motifs.

Split Motif – instructions (PDF).
Video coming soon.

Triangle Motif

This is used as an underarm gusset and to reduce the width of the sleeve opening.
Triangle Motif – instructions (PDF)

Joining Front to Back – Arm Holes & Side Split

Coming Soon.

Hem Border

Video below:

Sleeve / Armhole Border

Making the border for the “sleeve” – instructions (PDF)

Video below:

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3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern

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Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern. This is an easy to remember ripple stitch that can be applied to projects such as blankets, or in this example, a washcloth. I created this version of the very popular chevron stitch back in 2014 for a class of new crochet students that had just finished my learn to crochet course. It’s a great way to start understanding how increases and decreases can shape crochet fabric.

If you’re thinking of making a blanket, you can use the instructions for the washcloth to make a swatch with your desired yarn.

Download a pdf version of the pattern, including chart: click here.

Detailed video tutorial here:

Tools & Materials

Yarn & hook: Worsted/Aran weight cotton yarn – 4mm/H Hook

Yardage per washcloth: 50g/106m/116yds  

Finished dimensions: Approx – 25cm/9.8” x 25cm/9.8”  

Finished size & yardage will vary depending on hook size, yarn thickness & your personal gauge.

Alternative Yarn Thickness
You can also try DK weight yarn with a 3.5mm hook which will result in a slightly smaller cloth.

Key
beg beginning
ch chain
dcdouble crochet
prevprevious
st(s)stitch(es)

Yarn Ideas

The Cotton – We Are Knitters

Shiny Happy Cotton – Wool & the Gang

Rico Organic Cotton Aran

Paintbox Cotton Yarn Aran

3-3-3 Easy Chevron Stitch Crochet Pattern for Washcloth – Instructions

Note: these instructions are in US crochet terminology.

Row 1: Ch44; sk3 chs (counts as 1dc), working into the back ridges of the 4th chain, 1dc; (1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 3dc in next ch) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3chs; 2dc in last ch. (counting the last 3chs of starting ch as 1stitch – 41sts)

Going forward, 2chs are made at the start of each row, these do not count as a stitch, nor are they ever worked into.

Switch to working through both loops of the stitch throughout.

Row 2: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in next last st which is the 3rd ch of the ch3 skipped at the start of Row 1. (41sts)

Row 3: ch2, turn the work, do not sk any sts, 2dc in 1st st; (1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 3dc in next st) x 3; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; dc3tog; 1dc into each of the next 3sts; 2dc in last st. (41sts)

Repeat Row 3 as desired and fasten off. For my washcloth, I needed 17 rows to make it square.

Note : if you want to use this stitch to make a larger cloth or even a blanket, you will need to add multiples of 10 to the starting chain for each additional pattern repeat.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making. Don’t forget to use #mezzamay 🙂

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How to dtr3tog Cluster – UK/British Crochet Terminology

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A lady on a Facebook crochet forum asked how to dtr3tog so I made a video showing the two possible ways you can make this stitch. Please note, these instructions are for British crochet terminology. In US crochet, the stitch I am demonstrating is a tr3tog.

What is a dtr3tog & when would you use it?

dtr3tog is short for “double treble crochet 3 together”. Sometimes it is also written as dtrc3tog. The stitch consists of 3 double treble posts but has only one stitch at the top.
This stitch combination can be used as a decorative, cluster stitch, for example, to emulate a petal or leaf. Alternatively, when worked across 3 stitches, it can also be used as a decrease.

What are the Symbols for dtr3tog?

I’ve made a few quick drawings of both versions of dtr3tog, including how they are worked for the start of a new round or row.

symbols for dtr3tog - including at the start of a row/round - British UK crochet terminology

How to dtr3tog – Instructions

I have written up 4 sets of instructions, in this post I cover the cluster stitch. I have written a separate post for the decrease/across 3 stitches version, but you can access those instructions via the links below:

  1. dtr3tog cluster – at start of the row/round…see below.
  2. dtr3tog cluster – mid row/round… see below.
  3. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – at start of the row/round… click here.
  4. dtr3tog across 3 stitches – mid row/round… click here.

How to dtr3tog at the start of the row:

If required, join new colour. I do this by holding the yarn at the back and pulling up a loop (fig. 1); chain 3 (fig. 2); yarn over twice (fig.3); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 4);

first four steps of making a double treble three together - hands crocheting with cream wool

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 5); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 6); yarn over twice (fig. 7); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 8);

steps 5-8 of making a double treble three together - hands crocheting with cream yarn

yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 9); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 10); yarn over & draw off all 3 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 11)

Last three steps of making a dtr3tog - woman's hands crochet with cream wool.

To make the stitch mid row/round :

yarn over twice (fig.12); insert hook into the next stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 13); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 14); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 2 loops on the hook (fig. 15);

making a dtr3tog mid row - woman's hands crochet with cream yarn.

yarn over twice (fig.16); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 17); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 18); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 3 loops on the hook (fig. 19);

hands crocheting with teal and cream coloured natural yarn

now yarn over twice (fig.20); insert hook into the same stitch & pull up a loop (fig. 21); yarn over & pull through the first two loops on the hook (fig. 22); yarn over & pull through the next 2 loops on the hook, you should now have 4 loops on the hook (fig. 23);

crocheting double treble stitches in wensleydale wool

yarn over & draw off all 4 loops on the hook – dtr3tog made! (fig. 23)

Summary of a dtr3tog

Make 3 partial double treble crochet stitches in the same stitch and finish them all off in one go.

Tools & Materials Featured in this Post

The green & teal yarns are Falkland Poldale DK 100% Wool by WitchCraftyLady.

The cream yarn is Rare Breed Wensleydale & Bluefaced Leicester DK in Cotswold Stone by Home Farm Wensleydales.

My hook is about 7 years old and it’s handmade by Furls. Not sure if they still sell the handmade hooks – they seem to be selling mass produced ones these days.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Baby Suri Alpaca Yarn – Tips for Crochet

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Crochet Tips for Baby Suri. I’m going to talk about crocheting with this lovely, fluffy yarn! Baby Suri is a yarn that’s similar to Mohair. Here I’ve got a yarn with Baby Suri Alpaca 74% and 26% Mulberry Silk by Lottie Knits. This is comparable to Kid Silk Mohair yarn. It’s a lightweight yarn which is classed as a heavy lace weight. So, you’ll need a hook size between 3 -5mm depending on what type of fabric you’re aiming for. Baby Suri is often suggested as an alternative to Mohair for people that find Mohair irritating next to the skin, but it has got Alpaca in it, and I know that that is an issue for some people. However, it is an option worth trying if you know you don’t have an allergy to Alpaca but find that the Mohair is too irritating.

Scroll down to the bottom of this post to see the matching YouTube video.

Baby Suri V Kid Silk Mohair

I’ve got some work here, my “Cowl Island” pattern, which is made in Kid Silk Mohair, also by Lottie Knits in the colour-way “Oil Slick Rainbow”. Next to it, I’ve got a little sample that I’ve crocheted up in Baby Suri in the colour-way “Lichen”.

So you can see the difference, there’s slightly less of a halo with the Baby Suri but overall it has got quite a similar look. In regards to texture, I would say although the Kid Silk Mohair is very soft, the Baby Suri this has got a softer, slightly plumper feel. Lottie describes it as “kitten soft”. It reminds me of the “Teddy Bear” fabrics you can get. It feels like the yarn is a little bit denser – probably because the Mohair is laceweight and the Baby Suri is a heavy-lace but also because the core of the yarn seems to be more voluminous.

The other thing I would mention as a difference between the Kid Silk Mohair and the Baby Suri is, the distribution of fluff along the yarn strand. It is quite uneven, I wouldn’t go so far as to call it slubby, but you will get areas where there’s less fluff than others, and because this yarn has been hand-dyed is quite attractive because you can see some of the inner core of the silk coming through, which does give the stitch quite an unique texture with a slight variance of color.

As mentioned, with Baby Suri yarn, the distribution of fluff isn’t as even, however, the overall effect once crocheted up, this isn’t really noticeable as it does even itself out across the stitches. The other thing I would say that I noticed about working with this yarn is that, there’s actually very little shedding. When I’ve worked with Kid Silk Mohair in the past, you do get an awful lot of little bits of fluff coming off as you’re crocheting, they float into the air, they can get into your eyes, on your clothes and you notice as well on the work surface little fibers that have shed off. With this Baby Suri, even as I’ve been frogging, there is very little coming off it. So this might be another reason why it’s more suitable than Kid Mohair for some people because you get less chance of these particles coming off and irritating your skin, your eyes, and your nose.

Crochet Tips for Baby Suri

Swatches

I’ve crocheted up some swatches and I’ll show you those first, before I go into talking about how easy it is, or how easy it isn’t to crochet with this kind of yarn – maybe dispel some of the myths about that.

I think this kind of yarn is best worked up in a slightly larger hook size because you’re probably going to be making garments, scarves or shawls out of it so you don’t really want the fabric to be too stiff.

Single Crochet (UK Double)

So here is a little swatch that I’ve crocheted up in single crochet (UK double crochet), and I’ve used a 3.5mm hook. It does create quite a nice floaty fabric which would be great for a top. Usually, a sc crochet stitch generates quite a stiff fabric which is why it’s more commonly used in toymaking and homewares as opposed to garments.
Gauge (after washing & blocking) : 18st & 21 rows to 10cm with a 3.5mm hook.

a swatch of fabric in single crochet made with baby suri alpaca yarn in lichen green
Extended Single Crochet (UK Extended Double)

Here is a sample in extended single crochet which in my opinion is underused and underrated stitch.
Gauge (after washing & blocking) : 16st & 14 rows to 10cm with a 3.5mm hook.

a swatch of fabric in extended single crochet made with baby suri alpaca yarn in lichen green
Half Double Crochet (UK Half Treble)

And then I’ve got a half double crochet sample here (UK half treble), which is really nice. Hdc is a really useful stitch for making garments because it’s a quick stitch that’s not too open.
Gauge (after washing & blocking) : 18st & 11 rows to 10cm with a 3.5mm hook.

a swatch of fabric in half double crochet made with baby suri alpaca yarn in lichen green
Double Crochet (UK Treble)

And then here I’ve got double (UK treble) crochet. Generally, double crochets are such long stitches that they can make quite an open fabric, especially if you’re using slightly larger hook than recommended. However, you can get away with it with this Baby Suri because the halo of fluff does fill in some of these little gaps, and helps to mesh the fabric together which I think would make it really good for a scarf, wrap, or floaty top.
Gauge (after washing & blocking) : 17st & 8 rows to 10cm with a 3.5mm hook.

a swatch of fabric in double crochet made with baby suri alpaca yarn in lichen green
Honeycomb Mesh Stitch

Here’s a more lacey and open stitch. I just used to kind of v-stitch which creates a nice meshy fabric. This would give you really good yardage of this precious Baby Suri yarn if you wanted to make a wrap, or even a kind of a throw over top.
Gauge (after washing & blocking) : 10st & 7 rows to 10cm with a 4.5mm hook.

a swatch of fabric in honeycomb mesh crochet stitch made with baby suri alpaca yarn in lichen green

Stitch Visibility

There is quite a widespread belief that crocheting with this kind of yarn is quite tricky. So, whilst I wouldn’t deny that it’s not as easy as crocheting with a nice smooth yarn, I also don’t actually think it’s as bad as we’ve been led to believe, especially if you are using open stitches or maybe working into spaces. If you do think you’re going to struggle with stitch visibility, you might be better off going for a stitch pattern where you are crocheting into spaces, like a mesh or shell stitch. I found that, the core of silk in the middle and with the fluff not being too dense, it wasn’t actually that difficult to spot the stitches. I didn’t have any problems at all crocheting my samples of single, half, double and treble crochets. Overall, with this Baby Suri, I don’t think stitch visibility is a particular issue.

Frogging or Ripping Back

There’s another belief that frogging this kind of yarn is really tricky. So again, I would say from my experience having sampled this Baby Suri yarn with crochet, that frogging isn’t as difficult as you may think.

The trick is to just unravel it quite slowly and gently. And of course, remembering to wind the yarn you’ve frogged back onto your ball otherwise you will end up with a big tangled mess. Every now and again, I’d get a little snag, but if I look closely, I could see that it’s just where the fluff is meshed together and if I pull that gently, it will actually come apart. So the trick is once it snags, loosen it up, pull it again, and loosen it up, pull it again. Frogging isn’t a major problem for me, as long as I was careful to not just rip, rip, rip quickly but do it quite carefully and slowly, stitch by stitch and look to see what’s caused the snag.

Having said that, occasionally, you might come to quite a badly stuck together part, especially if the yarn has previously been crocheted and frogged multiple times which seems to increase the likelihood of running into problems when fogging. Sometimes the halo of fluff can form a kind of noose around the yarn. If you look closely, you might see that there’s a little loop around the two bits of yarn which is not actually any part of the stitch. Sometimes you can loosen this by gently pulling it apart in different directions or you can actually just snip the noose with a small pair of sewing scissors.

I’m actually in the process of designing a top with this particular stitch, and I will also be using this exact yarn from Lottie Knits. If you’d like to see how that turns out and you’re interested in the pattern, please subscribe to my newsletter and YouTube channel so that I can keep you up-to-date with my latest designs. Thank you!

Accompanying video for : Crochet Tips for Baby Suri

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Not exclusively crochet or knitting related posts because I don’t separate my life from my craft and my passion. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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This post : Crochet Tips for Baby Suri

Crochet Lucet Cord Tutorial

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Throughout the years I’ve taught crochet , there have been many projects where a cord is required (e.g. the mesh soap bag). There are many options for making cords and having tried various methods, I’ve found that the Crochet Lucet Cord or Four Sided Chain is my favourite option for the following reasons:

  1. You don’t need any special equipment – yes, you can make a lucet cord without a lucet!
  2. You can use the hook you’re already using for your project.
  3. The technique is easy to memorise.
  4. Once you get a rhythm going, the cord works up pretty quickly.
  5. It makes a firm and thick cord.
  6. The finished cord is flexible yet strong.
  7. It’s very attractive – it looks like a four sided chain.

Materials

  • Yarn – thicker is better for a good effect. I’m using a DK weight yarn doubled up (Paintbox Cotton DK in Melon Sorbet).
  • A crochet hook – in this example I’m using a 3.5mm hook (Clover Amour). Use a slightly smaller hook than you’d normally use for the yarn thickness otherwise the stitches in the cord can end up being too slack.

How much yarn will I need for my cord?

You’ll need about 9 x the finished length of your cord.
E.g. desired cord is 30cm /12 inches long, so I’ll need 2.7 m / 3 yards of yarn or 2 x 2.7 m / 3 yards if you’re doubling up.

Crochet Instructions

  • Wind off a separate ball of yarn from your main skein to make a double thickness thread – tie the ends together to keep them together to start with.
  • With the tail end to the left, lay the yarn on a flat surface in an “arc” shape (fig. 1).
  • Fold over the top of the arc (fig. 2) , to make 2 “loops”.
  • Insert the hook into the right loop, from above, then, coming from underneath, bring the hook up through the left loop (fig. 3) .
orange cotton dk yarn showing steps to making a crochet lucet cord
  • Pull the loops tight on the hook (fig. 4).
  • Rearrange the yarn – move the working end of the yarn over the left and hold the tail end as if to make a chain (fig. 5).
  • Yarn over and pull a loop through the first loop on the hook, i.e. ch1 with the left loop (fig. 5).
red crochet hook and orange cotton yarn showing how to make a crochet lucet cord
  • Carefully remove this loop from the hook (fig. 7).
  • Pinch this loop between your thumb and middle finger (or forefinger if you use your middle finger to feed the yarn) to stop it coming undone when you work the next stitch (fig. 8).
  • Ch1 with the right loop (fig. 9).
  • Replace the left loop on the hook (fig. 10)…
  • …and ch1 with the left loop (fig. 11).
  • Continue in this way, i.e. drop & hold left loop, ch1 right loop, replace left loop; ch1 left loop…until the cord measures desired length (fig. 12).
  • To finish off, after a ch1 left loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through both the left and right loops (fig. 13).
  • Cut the yarn, yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook and all the way out. Pull tight (fig. 14).
  • Tie a tight knot in each end and trim, or as in this example, you could also add a bead at each end for a decorative effect (fig. 15).
hands crocheting a lucet cord using yellow cotton yarn

TIP : To even out the cord, roll it between your fingers and pull it gently all along is length. This makes a big difference to the look of the cord – making it firmer and smoother.

You can also find a video of this technique on my YouTube channel:

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Perfect Crochet Picot Stitch – Tutorial

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I’ve put together this tutorial showing you how to get the perfect picot stitch. When I first started crocheting, I struggled to get my picot stitches looking right… they didn’t stand up straight and they weren’t symmetrical. There are quite a few different ways to make a crochet picot stitch – you’ll be especially aware of this if you have ever made Irish Crochet. Eventually, after much trial and error, I started making them the way I’ll describe below – this method consistently gives me a satisfying, even, symmetrical and upright set of picots!

In the following crochet tutorial, I am adding the picot stitch trim to my “Mesh Soap Bag“, which is a free pattern.

3 Single Crochet & Chain 3 Picot Stitch Pattern

This is a simple stitch pattern of 3sc, ch3 picot. In the round it’s a 3 stitch repeat and worked flat it’s a 3 stitch repeat + 2.

The stitch pattern looks like this, in a chart format:

crochet chart showing symbols for a chain 3 picot stitch pattern

If you’re unfamiliar with crochet charts : the crosses are the single crochet stitches & the three loops and dot represent the chain 3 and slip stitch

chart showing 3 single crochet & chain 3 picot with the picot highlighted with a red circle

Instructions

Make 3sc and then make the picot as follows: chain 3, then hold the chain at the back of the work and into the last sc made FROM THE BACK OF THE STITCH, TO THE FRONT – slip stitch, pulling the slip stitch tight before proceeding with the pattern repeat, i.e. 3sc, ch3 picot … as many times are required!

I have also made a “Perfect Crochet Picot Stitch” video tutorial, which you can find here, on my Mezzamay YouTube channel:

Project Info

Disclosure

I sometimes use affiliate links to my favourite yarns, hooks and other craft materials.

Criss Cross Cotton Facecloth – Free Crochet Pattern & Video

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Here is my free crochet washcloth pattern, however, please don’t let the “wordyness” of the pattern or length of the video put you off! This really is a quick and easy crochet project which makes the perfect gift or colour coordinated accessorise for your home.

I’m not even sure how I managed to make a 45 minute video just about a flannel but hopefully you might find some of my explanations, demonstrations and tips useful.

I’ve included a menu here of where you can find the key points in the video in case you have neither the time or inclination to watch the whole thing.

Free Crochet Washcloth Pattern Details

A simple facecloth in single crochet – made special with a slip stitch surface design in a contrasting colour & finished with a textured, reverse single crochet border. Make it in soft cotton for the perfect, colour coordinated bathroom accessory. I have also made pairs of flannels, in opposite colours, with matching, handmade soap as gifts.

Pattern Format: 
Pattern is written in US crochet terminology and includes photos and mini tutorials for some of the techniques involved. A video is also available here.

Gauge: 
Gauge is 16 sts & 20 rows in single crochet.

Finished dimensions: 
If you crochet to gauge, the flannel is a generous 28cm x 28cm.

Materials:

  • Aran or Worsted Cotton Yarn in 2 colours (each cloth uses 106.0 meters / 115.9 yards in Colour A & 48.5 meters / 53.0 yards in Colour B).
  • Hook – 4mm
  • Tapestry or wool needle.
  • Stitch markers or scrap yarn.

Make to sell: 
You may make these wash-cloths to sell, either for charity or personal profit if you are a small scale crafter. All I ask is that you place the following text credit, either in your online listing or on a small piece of paper with the finished item: Design from www.mezzacraft.com

Other standard copyright laws apply.

Download Pattern

From Ravelry
From www.mezzacraft.com

Video Index

  • Starting chain 2:10
  • Single Crochet edging 6:30
  • Marking the horizontal lines 18:00
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet horizontally on the fabric 20:45
  • Marking the vertical lines 26:10
  • How to Slip Stitch Crochet vertically on the fabric 27:45
  • Slip Stitch Crochet intersection 29:15
  • How to make the Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet border 33:20
  • Finishing the horizontal & vertical Slip Stitch lines & sew in ends 43:50

I love to hear from you, so if you have made my free crochet washcloth pattern, please do share! I’m on Instagram as @mezzamay – mark your projects #mezzacraftcrochet !

I’m also happy to receive any feedback you may have about my patterns.

Thank you!

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Half Motif

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Granny Stitch Border, Join As You Go For Half Motifs
(US Crochet Terminology)
Here I show you how to make the joins for the half motifs. It’s only slightly different to the granny stitch join for the solid motifs, the two main differences being that the border/join is worked flat, i.e. turned after each row, and that the first and last cluster is made up of 4 stitches rather than 3. I have written out the instructions again, so if you’ve already followed the pattern for the full motif, I apologise for any repetition!
Materials 
Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
Special stitches & techniques:
sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

To demonstrate the technique, I’m using the four motifs previously made and turned them around 45 degrees. I’ve made 8 half motifs, ready to join.
half or triangle crochet motifs in position ready for join

E – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

The border is worked in rows, along the two shortest sides of the triangle. Here it’s joined along one side of an adjacent motif and into a shared corner.
Round 1: With WRONG SIDE FACING Join yarn into first dc st of your “Half Solid Granny Square” motif; ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st [fig1]; *(sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 3 times [fig2]; sk3dc*; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made* [fig3]; repeat from * to * once more; in last remaining st, i.e. a ch3, in 3rd ch – 4dc [fig3]
You should have: 4 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner, 1 x 4dc cluster at start & finish.
crochet instructions for granny stitch join with half motif
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig5]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig6]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig7]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig8]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 3 times; sk3dc, last remaining st is a ch3 [fig9], in 3rd ch – 4dc; fasten off [fig10].
round two of half motif granny stitch join

F – Granny Stitch Border & Join for Half Motif

Here the border is joined along both sides including a shared corner join.
Round 1: As E
Round 2: ch3, TURN WORK [fig11]; make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, 3dc in same st [fig12]; continue round 2 as per pattern, remembering to join between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the next corner [fig13]; 3dc in ch2 sp, make a shared ch2 sl st join into adjacent motifs, 3dc in corner sp [fig14]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to adjacent motif until you come to the last remaining st [fig15]– this is a ch3, in 3rd ch – 3dc, make a sl st join in ch2 corner sp of adjacent motif, ch3, sl st in same st as 3dc just made; fasten off [fig16].
granny stitch crochet join for triangle motifJoin the remaining 6 half motifs in the same way as F & G. Don’t worry if the edges of your granny stitch border join & half motifs don’t look particularly neat, this will be redressed when we crochet the final borders.solid squares and triangle crochet motifs joined
If you’d like to see more of my crochet work and current knitting/crochet projects I’m currently working on, please do follow me on instagram. I’m mezzamay. And if you happen to make any of my patterns, don’t forget to tag your posts #mezzacraft .

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

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Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

(US Crochet Terminology)

Click on the link for the Three Round Solid Granny Square pattern.

As per my Blue Buoy Blanket, here I’m using the classic 3 double crochet granny cluster stitch as a two row border and joining with the last round to adjacent squares with slip stitches. Although this can be seen as a no-sew option, there will still be quite a few ends to weave in. To make this less of a chore, I tend to try and discipline myself to sew in ends after certain milestones. E.g. after I’ve joined 10 motifs, I’ll spend time sewing in the ends before I allow myself to do any more of the fun bits, i.e. crocheting!

To demonstrate the granny stitch border and joining technique, I am making a cushion cover which is made up of 4 square motifs and 8 half/triangle motifs. Once you have mastered the basic principle, it’s pretty easy to scale this up to larger items such as blankets or wraps.

At this point, I would like to say that I have not had this pattern tested or tech edited. Please do let me know if you have any issues or need any help. This crochet tutorial just covers joining the full, square motifs. Thank you!

Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join for Three Round Solid Squares

Granny Stitch Border & Join As You Go For Full Motifs

Materials 

Yarn : DK Cotton Yarn (Paintbox)
Hook : 3.5mm / E / 4

Key (US terminology)

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rnd – round
sk – skip
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch

Special stitches & techniques:

  • sl st join (in ch2 corner space) – insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook.
  • ch2 sl st join – ch1, insert hook into corner space, from above. Pull up a loop through the corner space and through the loop on the hook, ch1.
  • join between clusters – after you’ve made a 3dc cluster, insert hook from above into corresponding sp between clusters on adjacent motif, pull up a loop and pull it through the space and through the loop on the (i.e. sl st join).
  • shared ch2 sl st join – instead of working into a space, you’re working into a previous sl st join so you’ll need to locate the relevant stitch first, ch1, insert hook into sl st, from right to left. Pull up a loop through the slip stitch and through the loop on the hook, ch1.

A note about joins:

A join shouldn’t be too loose so that the work looks sloppy, but neither should it be pulled too tightly as this will affect the flexibility and make the work stiff. Importantly, you don’t want the slip stitch too tight as you may need to work back into it for a shared join.

Crochet Instructions (Abbreviated)

A – Granny Stitch Border (Without Join)

Round 1: Join yarn into any ch2 corner of your “Solid Granny Square” motif; ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*;  repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc, 3dc in next st; (sk2dc, 3dc in next st) 2 times; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (5 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; *(sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made*; repeat from * to * 3 times; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters; working back into the first corner sp – 2dc, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig1]  (6 x 3dc clusters along each side, ch2 sp in each corner)

granny stitch crochet border & join layout

B – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A.

Round 1: As Motif A

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc [fig2], make a ch2 sl st join into motif A, as follows: ch1, insert hook from above into ch2 sp of the bottom left hand corner of motif A [fig3], pull up a loop and pull it through ch2 corner sp and through loop on hook (sl st join) [fig4], ch1; 3dc in corner sp [fig5]…

granny stitch join step by step instructions

…continue round 2, joining between clusters to motif A as follows: * insert hook from above into adjacent sp between clusters on motif A [fig6], pull up a loop and pull it through sp and loop on hook (sl st join) [fig7]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters [fig8]; *; repeat from * to * 4 times; sl st join between adjacent clusters on motif A [fig9]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left hand corner of motif A; 3dc in corner sp [fig10]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig11].

granny stitch crochet border instructions

C – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along one side and to two corners of motif A, including a shared corner join with motif B.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, ch2, 3dc – corner made; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times [fig12]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc, make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A & B, as follows: ch1, insert hook, from right to left, through sl st join [fig13], pull up a loop and pull it through the sl st join and the loop on hook, ch1 [fig14]; 3dc in corner sp [fig15]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif A; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top right hand corner of motif A [fig16]; 3dc in corner sp; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off [fig17].

granny stitch join tutorial

D – Granny Stitch Crochet Border & Join

The motif is joined along two sides and at three corner points, including a shared corner join with motif A,B & C.

Round 1: As A.

Round 2: sl st into ch2 corner, ch4 (counts as 1dc & a ch2 sp), 3dc in same corner sp; (sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) [fig18]; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif B; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif B [fig19]; in ch2 corner sp– 3dc [fig20], make a shared ch2 sl st join into join of A, B & C, 3dc [fig21]; continue round 2 as per pattern, joining between clusters to motif C; in ch2 corner sp – 3dc, make a ch2 sl st join into top left corner of motif C [fig22]; sk3dc and 3dc in sp between clusters) 4 times; finish off first corner – 2dc into corner sp; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4, fasten off. [fig23]

traditional granny stitch border and join for square motifs

For instructions of how to join the half motifs, please see this post.

Ideas & Suggestions

There are lots of ways you could utilise and modify this simple border and join:

  1. Luxurious Wrap – Make use of your hand-dyed sock yarn scraps to crochet small, solid squares and then use another luxury 4ply & the Granny Stitch Border to join it all together.
  2. More Granny – love the granny stitch? It’s easy enough to increase the number of rows from 2 to 3 or 4… maybe more! This would give a different look which I’d love to see.
  3. Try it in craft cotton or string to make a market bag or re-usable shopping bag.
  4. How would it look in variegated yarn?
  5. Or how about a funky top? Make two simple rectangles, slightly wider than your bust…seam shoulders and sides for a colourful addition to your wardrobe!

Connect with me!

I hope you found these instructions useful. If you are inspired to make a blanket after reading this post, please do let me know! You can often find me on Instagram. Please follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Star Flower Crochet Motif – Basic Join

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Join as you go crochet technique for the Start Flower crochet motifI’ve had a lot of interest in my Star Flower motif patterns, both the full and half motifs. I’m really sorry it’s taken me a while to get this post up, but at last here are the instructions showing you how to do the basic “join as you go” crochet technique for for the star flower motifs.

Making the video, charts and written instructions is pretty time consuming and always takes me longer than I think! Moreover, I’m on a real learning curve with the video editing so although I realise they are not brilliant as they are, I hope to improve with each new video!

Anyway, here you go…

I have also written up some instructions and a chart.

Joining the Main Star Flower Motif

(US crochet terminology)

Materials 

3.5mm/E/4 hook
DK 100% Cotton (Paintbox)

Key (US terminology)
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
prev – previous
rnd – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
tr – treble crochet

The Star Flower motif is joined to the other motifs in the final round. The following instructions only cover how to join in the final round. For the full, single motif instructions, please click here.
For the purpose of these instructions, I have made the four motifs out of a different yarn which is thinner and requires a smaller hook size than my original motif. Here I am using Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton & a 3.5mm hook (by Tulip Etimo Rose, one of my favourite brands of crochet hook – I’d highly recommend them.)

Even if you do not like to use charts, please do take a look at the chart I have drawn, along with the written instructions and/or video, as it shows the layout and sequence of joining the motifs in this particular demonstration.

 

Crochet Instructions

Note : the ch6 “loops” at each corner of the motif are shared by adjoining motifs, so where there is no join, make the ch6 loop as usual but when you come to a ch6 loop of an adjacent motif, you join without making a further ch6 loop. 

Motifs are joined at the corners and in the middle of the ch8 sections.

You may also want to take a look at the list of “join as you go” crochet tips I’ve compiled at the end of the post.

Motif 1…Make one complete motif.

Motif 2…Make a second motif, stopping before you start the final round. You’ll be joining the second motif to the left hand side of the first motif. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Corner join…at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring motif #1 is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to any ch6 loop from motif #1 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – corner join made!

ch8 section join…Straight away, make a ch8 join, as follows: ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch8 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch8 space; ch4 – ch8 section join made! Continue making the motif : in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join…

Next, make another corner join: at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the next ch6 space of adjacent motif, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – second corner join made! Now finish off the motif: ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 3…This third motif is joined to the top of the first motif. Again, make the third motif, stopping before you get to the final round. You may wish to place markers in the ch6 loops and ch8 sections to mark where you will join this current motif – it’s easy to get disorientated. Start off as follows: ch1, sc in sp, ch3 picot; (ch8; at the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, ch6, sc in next ch; ch8; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot) 2 times; ch8…

Shared corner join…this join takes place in the top ch6 loop where motif 1 & 2 are already joined. At the tip of the next long petal – sc in 2nd ch of ch4, now, ensuring the work is facing the right side up,  join the current motif to the shared ch6 loop of motifs 1& 2 as follows: remove the loop from the hook, insert the hook into the ch6 space, from above, and put the loop back on the hook, pulling it up through the ch6 loop; sc into the next ch in the tip of the current motif – shared corner join made!

Now, continue with a ch8 section join, a ch3 picot in the ch2 space of the short petal and then another ch8 section join; make the last corner join; ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Motif 4…This last motif is joined along 2 sides and 3 corners. This time, make the fourth motif, but only up to the second corner; make a corner join in the remaining top ch6 loop of motif 2; proceed with a ch8 section join; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make a shared corner join (the central point where motifs 1, 2 & 3 join); make a ch8 section join to motif 3; in ch2 sp of next short petal – sc, ch3 picot; make another ch8 section join; make the final corner join. ch8; join with sl st in 1st sc of rnd. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends and block into shape.

Video:

 

crochet chart showing final round for joining motifs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Join As You Go” crochet tips

 

If you are new to the “join as you go” technique, I would recommend implementing the following tips:

1. Work at a table so that you can lay the pieces flat. If you’re inexperienced, this technique isn’t well suited for lap work on the sofa!
2. Place a stitch marker in the centre section of your first motif – this helps you to keep orientated.
3. Before you join the next motif, decide where the joining points are going to be on the existing piece of work. Place stitch markers at the join points.
4. If you have 2 different coloured stitch markers, even better! Use one colour to mark corners and another colour for the ch8 section join. This is is particularly useful to help you keep track of where you are and what needs doing next.
5. Make as much of the final round as possible before joining – for example, if you’re joining along one side with two corners, make round four up the point where you need to join, i.e. the third corner. If you start off joining at the first two corners, you have to complete the remainder of the motif while it’s attached to the main body of the work, this can become quite cumbersome when the work becomes larger with more motifs.
6. Make sure, each time you join a new motif, that the work is facing the right way up!
7. Regularly lay the work out flat on the table and check all is well.
8. Don’t worry if it looks a bit scruffy. Once you’ve sewn in the ends and blocked, it will look much more presentable!