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Why I Don’t Sell My Crochet Creations for a Living: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

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I often get a lot of admiration for my crochet creations – especially the clothes, which I love AND appreciate. One of the most common, and well meaning comments I get is “You should sell these!”. Sometimes I explain why I don’t but a lot of the time I don’t bother, I just say, “I earn my living from teaching and designing crochet, not selling my finished items.”

Today, I was on a conference call that lasted 1 hour 20 minutes. During that time, I decided to join together 12 motifs with a continuous, join as you go, granny stitch border. In the image, you can see it’s the cream section of the work. For anyone that is interested in knowing why I don’t attempt to make a living by selling my crochet items, I will use this piece of crochet as an example to shed light on the reasons why I don’t crochet to sell!

Time and Minimum Wage

First of all, let’s address the minimum wage which is £11.98 p/h for London, UK. I have been teaching crochet and designing for 10+ years, there is no way I should have to, or want to work for less than £12 an hour with my skills and experience in the craft. However, for the sake of this example, I will charge £12 an hour.

I consider myself a quick crocheter, not mega fast but can certainly get up a good speed. If I was to charge £12 p/h for the cream border, that alone would be invoiced at £15.60. Each individual block takes me about 8 minutes to crochet. Already you can see the problem with this before we even extrapolate these numbers to factor in making an entire sweater.
I calculate roughly 6 hours 24 minutes for the motifs and 4 hours 48 minutes for the borders.
Total: 11 hours 12 minutes, round to 12 hours is £144

Material Costs

I haven’t even factored in the materials. Since I do my best to avoid plastics, I do not use acrylic and instead I use and advocate for natural materials. These tend to be more expensive. This cotton yarn is from Søstrene Grene and costs £2.28 a ball. The section shown, with 12 crochet motifs and borders is 65grams – which works out at about £3.00. I haven’t finalised the design yet, but my guess is I need about 48 motifs in total. So at least £12 in yarn alone. That’s actually one of my cheapest makes!
Total: £12

Design and Planning

I have not factored in the time it takes to design and plan the piece. The creative process involved in designing and planning each piece is hard to quantify, since a lot of it happens when I’m day dreaming, walking or driving. Bringing a unique and thoughtfully crafted item to life can involve a lot of trial and error with motifs, colour placements and the layout, construction and joins of the sweater. Let’s make a very conservative guess and say this part took me 2 hours.
Total: £24

Finishing Techniques

The finishing techniques – adding borders, cuffs, hems….sewing in ends, washing, blocking, drying…. these steps can add many hours and more yarn to the project. I’ll calculate 4 hours although this is conservative!
Total: £48

Distorted Expectations

Cheap, fast fashion has distorted people’s expectations of the cost of clothing, especially hand-made items. You can often buy hand-made and faux crochet garments for less than it costs me in materials to make the same item. Fast fashion is not only terrible for the planet but also creates and unfair competition for those that are trying to make clothes ethically. You can buy a similar sweater to the one I am making for £28 from one of the infamous online fast fashion sellers. For the sweater I am making, using my calculations above, I would need to charge at least £228!

Personal Well-being

I am not a machine. Contrary to popular belief, and what I jokingly proclaim, I don’t actually want to sit around crocheting ALL day and EVERYDAY. It would result in burn out, possible repetitive strain injuries and definitely postural and skeletal issues from the physical and mental toll of continuous crochet work. It would destroy my love of the craft.

E-commerce Insights

I have worked in e-commerce for many years. I know that selling a product isn’t just about selling the product! There is customer care, dealing with complaints…and with custom orders and handmade items you have a unique set of issues that arise. What happens if the piece doesn’t fit? What if they don’t like it? What kind of after purchase services are people expecting? For example, I have heard many horror stories where the handmade item has been mistreated by the buyer and they expect the maker to repair or replace at the makers costs! What happens if the item goes missing in transit? Yes, you can claim back the money paid but you can’t claim back the hours spent making the item or the replacement you may then have to crochet! These are all things I would find extremely stressful to deal with on a regular basis.

Passion for Teaching

I love teaching crochet – this is my main passion! To give you the tools and confidence to create your own unique items and for you to gain an understanding and appreciation of what’s involved in making a crochet garment. If I was trying to earn a living from crocheting clothes to sell, I would not have as much time for you and all of my beautiful community.

The Exceptions

Having said all that – there are rare occasions where I sell my crochet creations. These are sample sales and special custom orders.
I do accumulate lots of crochet items from teaching and making prototypes for designs. So, every now and then I will have a sample sale. Often times, these will not be priced to reflect the work that has gone into them – usually I just try to recovered the cost of materials as I know I would not sell them if they were priced accurately.
The other exceptions are when it’s for someone I know well, they understand crochet and the process and are willing to pay me fairly.

About the Crochet

The motifs in this post are what I call my Summer Grannies or Lite Granny Squares. They have less stitches in each cluster and more chain spaces. This makes for a more open motif that is lighter in weight, uses less yarn and is therefore a bit cooler! Especially when made in 4ply cotton like this.

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The Story of Two Crochet Designs – Journal of Scottish Yarns

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Buy the Cùl Mòr Cardigan crochet pattern now! Ravelry: Cùl Mòr Cardigan pattern by Merrian Holland

This is a bit of belated post and it seems like an age ago that I started working on the designs featured in the very first issue of The Journal of Scottish Yarns.  It was published at the beginning of June and I’m only just getting round to reflecting on the process so that I can tell you all about my contribution. The act of writing this post is partly for my own benefit to document my journey but also with the hope that you might want to support this fabulous project!

How it Started

Back in October 2021, I received a message via my website from Susan, asking if I’d like to design something for a new publication which focused on the textile industry in Scotland. My name had been passed to her from a Ravelry friend Emily, who is also a knitwear designer and tech editor. She explained that this new, quarterly magazine would be a mix of articles and projects, all focused on Scotland. Susan had seen my Twinkling Granny Squares Sweater and wondered if she could commission a crochet garment design using motifs and Scottish yarn. We arranged a Zoom call and right away I felt like I hit it off with Susan and was inspired by her warmth, enthusiasm, pride and love of all things yarny …and Scottish! Excited to start, and with a relatively short deadline, I immediately went online to research some Scottish yarn producers.

a collage of 3 images showing a crochet granny square cardigan with a waterfall front made of lambswool in muted shades of light grey, green blue and mustard

Brief

The brief for the designs in the first issue was quite loose – I was asked to design a crocheted garment with motifs, inspired by the colours of a Hebridean Beach– sea, sky, sand, gorse and heather.

Yarn

I had already partly formulated a cardigan design in my head using a simple variation of a granny square and “random” colour placements. It didn’t take me long to settle on J C Rennie Supersoft 4ply as my choice as it ticked all the boxes for the brief and my own personal requirements for yarn:

  1. Natural fibre – 100% lambswool.
  2. Made in Scotland!
  3. Good yardage.
  4. High quality.
  5. A large range of beautiful colours that fitted the brief.
  6. Great value (considering all of the above).

Once I’d selected the colourways and started swatching, I was delighted by the colours and texture of the J C Rennie Supersoft 4ply – the yarn seemed to embody the spirit of the Scottish Highlands that I fondly recalled from trips over the years. The resulting fabric was also perfect for the lightweight cardigan design I had in mind. Gently rustic but with a surprising amount of drape.

What’s in a Name?

The cardigan design is called Cùl Mòr, a twin summited mountain in the Scottish Highlands that I hiked up with my then boyfriend. Click here to read more and hear how it’s pronounced. The first sample I made for the journal features colours that evoke memories of that magical trip – Light Grey (Putty 221), Mustard Yellow (Cummin 262), Turquoise (Fauna 457), Green (Asparagus 185) & Blue (Teal Dust 1525).

Style & Fit

The Cùl Mòr cardigan has been designed as a loose-fitting, easy to wear piece with a waterfall opening. The lambswool Supersoft 4ply is lightweight, yet warm and has optional button loops so you can wear it with the fronts closed for extra warmth if needed. Available in a range of sizes with finished bust measurement from 96cm/37.75 inches to 176cm/69.25 inches. The length of the body and sleeves are easily customizable by adding extra motifs or half motifs.

granny square cardigans worn by two young women - hand made in natural lambswool in funky colours

Crochet Skill Level

Although there are a lot of motifs involved, the making of which require a certain level of ambition and commitment, I feel this crochet pattern is actually quite easy. The main motif is simple enough – an easy to memorise, slight variation of the traditional granny square. The fronts, back and sleeves are rectangles of motifs, which are all joined in the main colour using the “continuous granny stitch join” technique. This is an easy technique to master and I even have a video tutorial here which while not specific to the Cùl Mòr cardigan, does explain the basic principles.

For the larger sizes, there is some under arm shaping using a series of granny stitch “wedges” – granny stitch short shows if you like – to avoid the huge kimono effect sleeves that often come with poorly graded designs.

close up of continuous granny stitch join using lambswool yarn and clover amour crochet hook and underside of sleeve with shaping

Join us for a CAL (Crochet Along)?

Susan and I have a CAL planned! I’ll be on hand to help with any pattern queries… it will be fun and there will be prizes…are you interested? We’ll be announcing the guidelines soon.

I myself will be making another version of the Cùl Mòr but instead of a random colour sequence, I’m going to use the same order of colours for every motif!

a montage of 3 images showing fingerless mitts crocheted in natural shetland yarn

Spin Off Design – Loch Maree Fingerless Mitts

At some point, well into the design process of the cardigan, Susan asked if I’d also be able to contribute a smaller crochet design to the journal. I had already become a little intrigued by the way the central motif of the Cùl Mòr looked like a little flower so I started experimenting for a motif with that… and soon enough the Loch Maree fingerless mittens were born. I am ever so proud of these – needing only a small amount of J C Rennie Suppersoft 4ply yarn (leftovers from your cardi?!), the motifs are made first and then the main body of the mitten is crocheted sideways. The mitts have a proper, shaped thumb gusset that is added in once the main part of the mitt is completed. Only a small amount of sewing is required for seaming and then the mitts are finished with some slip stitch surface crochet.

I am a big fan of fingerless mitts as they are surprisingly warm and very practical with our constant smart phone use!! Have you ever made or worn fingerless mitts? If not, I would encourage you to give them a go!  

A Crochet Pattern Publication with a Difference

I was so delighted when I finally received my hard copy of the Journal of Scottish Yarns. It’s such a beautiful book with interesting articles …lots of space given to the knit and crochet instructions with minimal condensation of my original draft patterns and many beautiful photos showcasing the cardigan, including a version of the design in a different colourway. I love the vibrant version that Susan’s sister crocheted in black, pink, yellow and green, giving a stylish retro vibe.

knitting patterns modelled by four women from Journal of Scottish Yarns

And There’s More

The Journal features another crochet pattern by Samira Hill – Cullen, a lovely vest top that I will also be making and I’ve already swatched for!

There are 4 lovely knitting patterns – a tabard, a tank top, a cowl and a shawl.

As well as one embroidery project.

Fascinating articles, all beautifully illustrated/photographed:

  • A short history of Scottish textiles.
  • Susie Finlayson’s personal story as a stitcher of The Great Tapestry of Scotland.
  • Newburgh Handloom Weavers – making bespoke tweed.
  • 6,000 years of sheepy history (my favourite article in the journal!).
  • The origins of Iona Wool.
  • The Border Mill – it started with alpacas!
  • Embroidery and the Jacobites.
  • The Dovecot Team – creating a tapestry from a painting.
  • Advice on learning to spin.

There’s also a lovely interview of Susan on the Heather & Hops Vlog where you get to hear more about it and also see my designs in action! https://youtu.be/qxDpcFcDdfs

Get Your Copy

I really hope you are inspired to buy a copy of Susan’s first publication which promotes many small businesses and designers! Here are some lovely things others have said about the publication:

This is scholarly, intelligent, interesting and visually amazing. There are also beautiful patterns. A download code is included.

Janice C

I love the paper quality, colour plates and the composition of each page. The first article on the amazing and exciting project – The Great Tapestry of Scotland, in Galashiels, provided detailed information about its creation. As to the patterns – for me, those beautiful garments are aspirational. Thank you for a wonderful journal about a particular aspect of Scotland.

Yarn Issue 1 – Spring / Summer 2022 [print & digital] — YarnJournal

Win a Copy

Can’t afford to buy a copy right now? Don’t worry, I have a spare copy to give away to one lucky newsletter subscriber! And I will ship worldwide! If you already have a copy…don’t worry – I will send you Issue 2 instead, when it’s out!

To enter the draw, you just need to do 3 things (If you haven’t already!):

  1. Sign up to my newsletter (scroll to bottom of post).
  2. Follow me on Instagram or Facebook .
  3. Follow Susan’s Instagram page for Journal of Scottish Yarns.

Winners will be drawn at random and will be notified via the email address you’ve used to sign up to this newsletter. Closing date for the draw is 30th September 2022.

small granny squares & a chevron stitch crochet in shetland lambswool in autumnal colours

What’s Next?

As you may know from my last newsletter, I am all about crochet these days, having given up my previous job to pursue my crochet dreams. And luckily there’s definitely an Issue 2 and it will include a design from me! All I can tell you now is that I’ll be using Jamieson’s of Shetland DK yarn for a cosy sweater.

Thanks for reading, and as always, if you have any questions or feedback, I’d love to hear from you.

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Crochet a Stretchy Rib Cuff

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Crochet Ribbed Cuff

These instructions are for making the ribbing first and then sewing onto the sleeve afterwards. There are methods where you attach the ribbing directly to the garment as you make it, but in this instance, because the sleeve is considerably wider and I wanted the cuff to be a specific fit around my wrist, I chose to make the ribbing independently.
The ribbing is created sideways, i.e. worked perpendicular with the edge of the sleeve, with slip stitch rows, where each stitch is made in the back loop of the slip stitch from the previous row.
You can make the ribbed cuff as wide as you like, in this case my cuff is 8cm with 22 sts.

The sweater I have made the ribbed cuff for is the Claremont Sweater. You can find the pattern for the motif and join here : Claremont Granny Square with Join

Thank you for visiting my website! If you have found any of my content useful, please consider making a small donation via Ko-fi. I hope you can appreciate that it takes many hours of hard work to share my extensive crochet knowledge via my free content. ♥ THANK YOU ♥

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size but for these instructions, I am using a Light DK / Sport weight yarn in one colour (Paintbox DK in Champagne White) with a 4mm / G hook – this is the same size hook that I crocheted the rest of the Claremont Sweater with.

Crochet a Stretchy Rib Cuff Instructions

Scroll down for video tutorial and downloadable pdf version of the instructions.

Key (US crochet terminology)
 
beg – beginning
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
sk – skip

Starting chain : Leaving a long tail (for seaming the edges of the cuff together later), start with a slip knot loop on your hook and chain the required number of stitches and add 1 chain as a turning chain – I chained 23 for 22 stitches.

Note : you’ll need a nice, neat and even chain that isn’t loose as it will end up making one end of your ribbing wider. If you struggle to make a tighter chain, go down a hook size, just for the starting chain.

Row 1 : sk the 1st ch, work 1 sl st into the back loop of each chain (see fig.1).

Note : you will need to crochet the sl sts quite loosely or you will not be able to work into them again on the return row. Practise pulling up the loop a little higher through the stitch than you normally would. One way to do this is to tip the back end of the hook down towards the ground as you pull the loop through the st. (see fig.2).

Tip : To keep the edges of your ribbing looking neat, you’ll need to make sure you turn the work in the same direction each time you start a new row. I am turning my work clockwise. (see fig.3)
three images showing a crochet chain in white cotton

Row 2 : ch1 (see fig.4), do not sk any sts, sl st into the back loop of each st, bearing in mind you may need to tilt the back of the fabric towards you to see the back loop as this stitch sits very flat to the fabric and therefore the loops are only visible when you tip the top edge of the work towards you (see fig.5). Take care not to miss the last stitch (see fig.6)! This can often be smaller and is sometimes accidentally missed. If you are unsure whether you need to crochet into what’s left of the row, count the stitches you have already made! Remember to crochet loosely by opening up the loop you create when you pull it put through the stitch.

a collage of three images showing slip stitch ribbing being crocheted in white cotton

Repeat Row 2 as many times as needed.

Finish with an even row. Fasten off leaving a nice long tail – you’ll use this to sew the cuff to the sweater sleeve.

Keep Going!

This stitch may require a new bit of muscle memory for you so don’t be disheartened if the first few rows seem difficult – keep going, keep the stitches relaxed, keep the pulled-up loop nice and open… after a while it will start to come easily and you’ll be able to work the stitch much more quickly and neatly.

You need to make at least 12 rows before you can experience the stretch effect of this slip stitch ribbing.

For my Claremont Sweater, I have crocheted 60 rows of sl st, giving me an 18cm strip of ribbing.

Seam the Cuff

Using the tail you left at the start (see fig.7), seam the edges of the cuff with a whip stitch through the back loops only of the starting ch and last row made – work front to back, matching stitch for stitch (see fig.8). Sew a double stitch for the first and last whip stitches made for security (see fig.9). Fasten off and weave in the end (see fig.10).

two images showing crochet stretch rib in white cotton
a collage of 3 images showing the seaming of stretchy crochet slip stitch cuff

Attaching the Ribbing to the Sweater Sleeve

selection of tools and materials required to sew a crochet rib cuff to a lacey white sweater - scissors, pins, thread

You will need:

  • Wool needle.
  • Dressmakers’ pins.
  • Scrap yarn for tacking (either 4ply or sewing thread in a different colour to sweater).
  • Scissors
Note: the edge of the sleeve has been prepared with a single crochet border to attach the cuff to. Please see separate instructions for this.

Turn the sleeve inside out. Insert the cuff, with right side facing, inside the sleeve. Line up the seam of the cuff with the inside seam of the sleeve. Pin in place (see fig. 11). Locate the middle of the sleeve edge – in this case, as the sleeve is 3 motifs wide, the middle is the starting ring of the 2nd motif. With the cuff folded at the side seam, match up the fold of the cuff with the middle of the sleeve edge and pin in place (see fig. 12).

two images showing a crochet cuff being pinned to a sweater ready to be sewn on

Gather the Sleeve to Match the Cuff with a Running Stitch

Starting close to one of the pins, attach the tacking thread in the sc border row on the sleeve. Make a double stitch to secure the tacking thread (see fig.13). Make a simple running stitch through the sc border of the sleeve (you’re not attaching the cuff yet, this stitch is ONLY going through the fabric of the sleeve). Stop when you reach the second pin. Carefully pull the tacking thread so that the sleeve fabric gathers (see fig.14). Once you’ve pulled it in enough to match the width of the cuff, make a double stitch to secure the gathers. Massage the gathers to distribute evenly and pin to the cuff (see fig.15).

Now do the same for the other half/side of the sleeve. Cut the tacking thread.

a series if 3 images showing the gathering of a white cotton sleeve with blue tacking stitch in preparation for sewing on a stretch rib crochet cuff

Sew the Cuff to the Sleeve

Thread the extra long tail from the cuff onto the wool needle. If you’ve ended up the long tail at the wrong end/side of the cuff, simply start with a fresh piece of yarn, ensuring it’s about 5 times as long as the circumference of the cuff and secure near the inside seam of cuff.

Whip stitch the cuff to the sweater – insert the needle through both loops of the sc border on the sweater (same way as you’d insert a hook) and then sew to the part of the ribbing that’s directly adjacent, making sure to catch 2 “strands” of yarn from the ribbed edge (see fig. 16). If you only catch one strand it will not be very secure and can also create holes where the loop you’ve caught on the ribbing pulls open.

Remove pins as you go. Finish with a double stitch. Before securing and tying off, carefully remove all tacking, turn the work inside out and check you are happy with your work before you commit to tying off and sewing in ends (see fig.17).

two images showing a stretch crochet cuff with a woman's hands, being added to a white cotton sweater

Crochet a Stretchy Rib Cuff – Download pdf Instructions

Click on the image below – opens in a new window.

Crochet ribbed cuff in white cotton - part of a lacey sweater. Woman's hand with crocheted ribbed cuff holds pot with cactus

Crochet a Stretchy Rib Cuff – Video Tutorial

Best used in conjunction with written instructions!

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Claremont Granny Square Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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First name or full name.

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I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

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Half Claremont Granny Square with Join

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Here are the instructions for the half Claremont granny square with join.

This half motif is a useful option for lengthening the sleeves and body of a garment where one full motif would be too much. I have used the half motif to do just that for this version of my Claremont Sweater. You could just as easily use it to make a blanket or table runner to a more exact size.

You can find the instructions & video tutorial for the full Claremont motif here : Full Claremont Granny Square with Join.

white cotton hand made crochet sweater detail, showing the half motif on cuffs and hem

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size but for these instructions (see examples below), I am using a Light DK / Sport weight yarn in one colour with a 4mm / G hook (Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton in Champagne White).

Half Claremont Victorian Style Granny Square with Join – Instructions & Chart

For written instructions with photo tutorials and chart, please download the PDF from my FREE Crochet Motif Directory

front cover of pdf pattern for half claremont granny square motif

Video Tutorial – Victorian style half granny square with join

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Half Claremont Granny Square Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

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Claremont Granny Square with Join – Free Crochet Pattern

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UPDATE: If you want to make your own custom sweater using this motif, I now run an online, guided course to design & make your own granny square sweater. It includes this Claremont motif and lots more! Sign up for the waitlist here: Online Granny Square Sweater Course – Join Waitlist

Claremont is a Victorian style granny square with join. I have used it to make 2 different sweater designs which I made as part of my “Design & Make Your Own Sweater Course”. It looks fantastic in a classic, off white cotton but would also look good in any, solid colour. With a simple border, I think this motif would make a beautiful throw or blanket.

a montage of 3 images showing a woman with long hair wearing a white cotton crochet sweater made with a victorian style granny square

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size but for these instructions (see examples below), I am using a Light DK / Sport weight yarn in one colour with a 4mm / G hook (Paintbox Yarn DK Cotton in Champagne White).

When making a project with this motif, for the best results, use one, solid colour. The mesh style join creates an attractive design element along the edges and at the corners of motif, especially where four motifs converge.  If you use different colours for each motif, this effect is lost.

white claremont victorian crochet motif in 4ply. dk and aran worsted yarn

Claremont Victorian Style Granny Square with Join – Instructions & Chart

For written instructions with photo tutorials and chart, please download the pdf here.

front cover of pdf crochet pattern for Victorian style granny square with join

Video Tutorial – Victorian style granny square with join

Half Motif

For instructions on how to make the half motif, please click here (opens in new tab).

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Claremont Granny Square Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and courses!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

How to Make a Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square – with Video

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How to Make a Half/Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square with Video & written instructions. You can also download a pdf pattern below.

For the Full 2-1-2 Granny Square please look at this post.

This is a 5 round, traditional granny square, using three colours. Colour A is used for 2 rounds, colour B for 1 round and colour C for 2 rounds, hence 2-1-2!

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size but for these instructions. I am using a 4ply / Fingering weight yarn in three colours – A, B & C with a 3mm / D hook. This makes a triangular motif that is 8cm x 8cm x 11cm / 3.1” x 4.3”. Bear in mind a thicker yarn and larger hook size will result in a bigger motif.

The yarn I have used is Merino Nylon blend 4ply from www.FruitfulFusion.co.uk

The blues and browns are from a mini skein set called “City of Bridges”. The pink is “Mango”.

Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square Pattern – Download

Download a pdf of the pattern here. Includes a chart.

Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square Pattern – Video

How to Make a Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square – Instructions

Note : This half motif is worked flat, as opposed to in the round.

Row 1 : With colour A, ch4 & join with a sl st in 1st ch to form a ring; ch3 (counts as 1dc for the start of this and all subsequent rounds); working into the ring, 2dc, ch2, 3dc. Do not fasten off (2 x 3dc clusters, 1 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 1)

Row 2 : Continuing with colour A, ch3, in same sp, 2dc; in ch2 corner space make 3dc, ch2, 3dc; in last st (3rd ch of beg ch3 from prev rnd), make 3dc. Fasten off (4 x 3dc clusters, 1 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 2)

Row 3 : Turn the work, join colour B in 1st st, ch3, in same sp, 2dc; between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc; between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc; in last st (3rd ch of beg ch3 from prev rnd) make 3dc. Fasten off (6 x 3dc clusters, 1 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 3)

Row 4 : Join colour C in 1st st, ch3, in same sp, 2dc; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 2 times; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc;  (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 2 times; in last st (3rd ch of beg ch3 from prev rnd) make 3dc. Do not fasten off. (8 x 3dc clusters, 1 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 4)

Row 5 : Continuing with colour C, ch3, in same sp, 2dc; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 3 times; in corner sp, 3dc, ch2, 3dc; (between the next 2 sets of 3dc, make 3dc) 3 times in last st (3rd ch of beg ch3 from prev rnd) make 3dc. Fasten off (10 x 3dc clusters, 1 x ch2 corners) (see fig. 5)

Don’t worry if your motif looks a bit “wonky”, once it’s been joined to the other pieces and has had the border applied, it will pull into shape.

Weaving in ends – for this half/triangle motif, I recommend doing this after joining and attaching any borders.

Granny Square Sweater Project

I have used these squares to make a granny square jumper/sweater on the bias, using a granny stitch border (in essence, an extra round) to join all the motifs together! I have called this the “Fruitful Granny Sweater” because all the yarns were dyed by the talented Ishrat from www.fruitfulfusion.co.uk . This sweater is part of my “Design & Make Your Own Granny Square Sweater” course which I am running at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames is September this year (2021). The course is now fully booked, but don’t worry, if you would like to do this course, I am also running it as a guided online course in November if. Please sign up to my newsletter below to be notified of sign-ups.

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Half / Triangle 2-1-2 Granny Square Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Twinkling Granny Square – Half or Triangle Motif

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I used this Twinkling Granny Square – Half or Triangle Motif for the neck shaping on my Twinkling Granny Square Sweater. In this post I’ll show you how to make this half motif and you’ll find a downloadable, written pattern with chart as well as an instructional video.

Thank you for visiting my website! If you have found any of my content useful, please consider making a small donation via Ko-fi. I hope you can appreciate that it takes many hours of hard work to share my extensive crochet knowledge via my free content. ♥ THANK YOU ♥

Update – September 2024

The Twinkling Granny Square Sweater is now part of my online, guided course: “Design & Make Your Own Granny Square Sweater”. If you’re interested, please join the waitlist for the next round by signing up below:

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size to make this motif but for these instructions, I am using a Light DK / Sport weight yarn in three colours – A, B & C. This will make a triangle motif with the two short sides 6cm/2.36″ long and the long side 9cm/3.54″. Size will vary depending on yarn thickness, hook size and your unique gauge.

For the hook, I am using a 4mm / G hook. I like to recommend Clover Amour, Tulip or Lykke wooden hooks.

Yarns used in these instructions:
Yellow : Naturally Dyed Pure British Wensleydale light DK from The Outside Dyers in Sunset Gold
Green: Falkland Poldale DK Weight Yarn from WitchCraftyLady in Lime
Orange: Naturally Dyed Pure British Wensleydale light DK from the Outside Dyers in Melon
Alternative yarn suggestions:
Rowan Felted Tweed DK (more of a sport weight really!)
King Cole Finesse Cotton Silk DK
Cascade 220 Superwash Sport
Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 120 DK
Three images showing the Granny Square – Half or Triangle Motif used in the neck shaping of a crochet sweater

Twinkling Granny Square – Half or Triangle Motif – Download

The PDF pattern is now available on my FREE Crochet Motif Pattern Directory, please sign up here: Mezzacraft Crochet Motif Directory.

The pattern includes a chart and written instructions.

Twinkling Granny Square – Half or Triangle Motif – Video

Granny Square Sweater

As mentioned, this motif is used for the neck shaping in my sweater. More details can be found here : Twinkling Granny Square Sweater.

woman standing on a heath wearing a handmade crochet sweater made with granny squares

Border and Joining Ideas

Would you like border and joining ideas for this crochet motif? Take a look at this post for downloadable instructions for the hdc border join shown below.

variation on traditional crochet granny square in green, yellow and orange with dark grey border

Did you crochet it?

I hope you like my Twinkling Granny Square Crochet Pattern – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzacraftcrochetcourses if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts usually for Amazon & Lovecrafts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch

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I’m going to show you how to make this very simple, but effective stitch pattern. I’ve coined it the “Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch” pattern, and it’s quite a simple crochet stitch combination. Click here to jump straight to the instructions. It only uses US double crochets (UK trebles) and US half doubles (UK half trebles). What I really like about it, is that it’s not a completely solid fabric – it has, what I call perforations, so it’s also not too open and therefore, it’s quite good for garments where you don’t want a totally solid stitch pattern, but at the same time, you want a bit of modesty that you might not get with a very lacy pattern.

close up of crocheted vest top in pinstripe crochet stitch pattern from mezzacraft ...worn by mezza

I designed this stitch pattern for a summer top. The top is crocheted from side to side so I’ve actually used the stitch pattern vertically which gives this nice, pinstripe effect. The top is crocheted with a 4ply yarn in a wool/silk blend and a 2.75mm hook, a combination that gives a really nice drape for a garment. Additionally, because of the way light shines on silk, it means that these horizontal stitches catch the light slightly differently to the vertical stitches which just gives a really interesting texture.

You can, of course, use different thicknesses of yarn and larger hook sizes.

Same stitch, different yarn!

Here you can see that the different yarns, thicknesses and hook size do generate quite different kinds of fabric that you could use for lots of different crochet projects. For example, the Aran/Worsted weight would make quite a nice cowl or even a hat. The stitch in DK could make a lovely baby blanket since the holes in the fabric are not big enough for babies’ fingers to get stuck in. You can see a stitch in a whole new light when you change the type of yarn and the hook size – each one catches the light differently and shows the stitches up in a slightly different way.

perforated pinstripes crochet stitch - sample in4ply/fingering weight yarn

4ply/Fingering

For the 4ply swatch, I’ve used a 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 24sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Posh Yarn Undyed Dorothy Sock (50% Superwash Merino, 50% Silk) www.poshyarn.co.uk

pintripe crochet stitch in double knit yarn

DK (double knit or heavy Sport weight)

For the double knit swatch, I’ve used a 3mm hook for the starting chain and a 3.5 mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 22sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in Putty Grey (121)

simple perforated crochet stitch in worsted weight yarn

Aran / Worsted

For the Aran swatch, I’ve used a 4mm hook for the starting chain and 4.5mm hook for the main stitch pattern.
The gauge is : 18sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4”).
Yarn details : Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Cream (61)

The Importance of Swatching

I wanted to make the same top again but this time in some 4ply cotton.  I crocheted up a swatch but didn’t like the drape of the fabric – it was very stiff at the correct gauge. There can be quite a lot variation in yarn thickness from one brand of 4ply to another which isn’t all that evident until you actually work it up. And that’s one of the reasons why I always suggest swatching, especially when you’re making garments, because it’s not just about getting the gauge spot on so that the item will fit you, it’s also about just seeing whether you actually like the fabric that will result in using the stitch pattern, the yarn, the hook size and getting the gauge.

Remember to wash and block your swatch too. This is particularly important if you are making a garment as the gauge, because drape and stitch definition of the fabric can alter considerably, especially with natural fibres.

Matching Chain and Stitch Gauge

two crochet swatching showing the difference in using a smaller hook for the starting chain

One thing I need to point for this stitch pattern and the resulting top that I made, is that I had to go down a hook size for the starting chain because it didn’t match the gauge of the main stitch pattern. You might be fortunate in that the gauge for your starting chain and swatch match but you won’t really know this before you start so this is another reason why it’s really important to swatch because this is the kind of thing that can show up that you might not have thought about.
So here you can see another swatch sample that I crocheted up. I used the same hook size for the starting chain as I did for the main body of the stitches. What you’ll notice is that the starting chain doesn’t match the gauge of the stitches, i.e. the gauge is bigger, resulting in the bottom edge of my swatch being distorted and too wide. If you’re making a garment or a blanket and you use the same size hook for the chain as the stitches, you’re going to end up with the bottom or edge, depending on where you’ve started being much too long. So in the case of the top, it means one of your side seams will be out of proportion.
To correct the disparity between the gauges, I used a 2mm hook for the starting chain and then for row one, I switched to the 2.75mm, which gave me matching gauges. For the other swatches in this post, I only went down 0.5mm in hook size. You might need a small amount of trial an error. I am a big advocate for adding hooks in in the smaller, 0.25mm increments to your collection, because these can often be the key to getting correct gauge for garments.

Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

You can find video instructions here which includes lots of additional tips. Check the comment under the video for the timestamp, click to jump straight to the stitch pattern instructions:

Downloadable Instructions

Download a .pdf here, which includes a stitch chart : Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – Instructions

Tools & Materials

You can use any yarn weight and corresponding hook size. For these instructions, I am using a 4ply/sock weight yarn with 2.5mm hook for the starting chain and switching to a 2.75mm hook for the main stitch pattern.

Stitch pattern repeat

3 – so to make a larger piece of fabric, increase your starting chain in increments of 3.

TIP : Try to keep the chains true to hook size, i.e. when you crochet, keep the loop exactly the same size as the diameter of the hook, rather than extending the loop. For this particular pattern, it keeps the stitches really neat, minimizes the gaps between the tall stitches and enhances the effect of the “perforations”.

Start with the smaller hook, ch 26.

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back ridge of the chain, dc into the 4th ch from the hook, 1dc into each ch. (24sts, counting the turning ch)

Row 2 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st (which was the ch3 turning ch of Row 1). (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Note: from now on, at the start of every round, there’s going to be a ch2 turning chain. This chain is never worked into, nor is it ever counted as a stitch.

Row 3 (RS): ch2, 1dc into 1st st; *1dc in sp; 1dc into each of 2 wrapped hdcs*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; 1dc in last sp; 1dc in last st. (24sts)

Row 4 (WS): ch2, don’t sk any stitches; 1hdc; *sk1st 1hdc in each of the next 2sts, 1hdc around 2hdc just made*; repeat from *to* until 2sts rem; sk1st, 1hdc in last st. (7 sets of wrapped hdcs, 8 perforations)

Repeat rows 3-4 as desired, ending with a Row 3 for symmetry.

If you are swatching, make a total of 13 rows.

Hand wash your swatch in luke warm water with a mild detergent. I like to use a gentle shampoo. Do not wring. Squeeze out the excess water between two layers of a clean towel. Lay flat on a towel, gently pulling into shape to open up the stitches. You can pin it square with some stainless steel (rust free) pins if you like. Allow to dry naturally.

I hope you like my Perforated Pin Stripes Crochet Stitch – if you give it a try, please let me know!

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

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Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Posh Yarn Advent Swap 2018

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Yarn Advent Swap : Last year I took part in the Posh Yarn Advent Swap. This is a really fun yarn swap for members of the Posh Yarn forum on Ravelry. The easiest way to describe what it entails is to “quote” Charlie, the organizer’s overview:

How it works:
Each participant makes 24 individually wrapped 10g mini-skeins of 4ply/sock weight Posh Yarn, which they then send to the organizer. They also send the organizer the cost of postage and packing for the return parcels (via PayPal).
Once all the parcels have been received by the organizer, they will redistribute the mini-skeins so that each participant has 24 different mini-skeins, each one from a different participant if possible. The organizer will mail the new sets of mini-skeins in plenty of time for them to arrive by 1st December.
Participants can then open one mini-skein each day, from the 1st to the 24th December (in the manner of an Advent calendar), or open them all at once. They can be knitted/crocheted up in the order opened, or saved up to arrange in a pleasing sequence.
Sharing photos of the yarn received, and the projects made, is encouraged, but is not compulsory.

charliesumx

I had plenty of Posh Yarn scraps to make 24 mini skeins, however, it did take a lot longer to hand wind, weigh and pack the skeins than I had anticipated. This year (oh yes, I am taking part in the 2019 swap!) I decided to teach myself how to make a proper mini skein which was much quicker!

A green mini skein of handdyed yarn, a vintage Christmas image of a St Lucy, a selection of crochet squares arranged in a whirl

Zero Self Control

The swap package arrived in very good time, early November if I recall correctly. I could not contain my curiosity and opened my first little yarn package right away. It was crocheted up, using a 2.5mm hook into little squares and triangles using my solid granny square and half square motif patterns.

Soon I lost ALL willpower. I became completely addicted to opening the mini parcels and crocheting up the motifs… all whilst wondering what I was going to make with them!

Three images, the first is of a stack of multicoloured crochet motifs, the second is a progress shot of the motifs being joined to make a wrap, the third image also shows a close up of the wrap, yarn and scissors

Coming Together

As it got closer to the “official” start of the calendar, i.e. the 1st December, I started to formulate a plan. I was going to make a large and cosy wrap. I already worked out that I would be able to make it 4 motifs wide by 14 long, with the square motif turned 45 degrees. I’d need 96 full motifs and 36 half motifs. I wanted to use my join-as-you-go granny stitch border and join but with a contrasting colour, Posh of course. I didn’t have the correct colour to hand. So I kept an eye out during the weekly shop updates in case something suitable cropped up. Luckily the beautiful, silvery grey and sparkly shade of “Caroline Sock” revealed herself. I snapped up a couple of skeins.

12 images showing vintage Christmas cards as a backdrop with with crocheted motifs on top

Sharing Progress

So, I’d worked out my project but then decided that I’d like to “share” a photo of the squares I’d made for each day of the advent in a unique way. I’ve always loved vintage Christmas cards so scoured the internet and collected a series of images to use as backgrounds to my “flat lays”.

I just had so much fun doing this, it really helped me get into the “festive mood” and I think everybody enjoyed me sharing my daily advent “snaps” on Instagram & on the Ravelry forum swap thread.

During December, I washed, blocked and started to join the motifs together. The project required a lot more of the Caroline yarn for the borders and joins than I had anticipated. Luckily a very kind Posh friend sent me her skein so that I could finish that section of the wrap.

left over scraps of colourful handdyed yarn & beautiful crochet border in line green and pink

The Border

I almost used up every scrap of the yarn I’d received in the swap, as well as 3 x 100g skeins of 4ply sock yarn for the joining borders. It took a long time to sew in all those ends! Most of the ends were sewn in as I went along, but it was still quite a big job.

I wanted to add a colourful border and found a beautiful pink and lime green in my stash that looked fabulous together. Initially I was planning on a simple border but I swear it almost crocheted itself into beautiful scallops and a line of surface slip stitch.

Finally I finished the “yarn advent swap” wrap at the end of January 2019. I loved every minute of this swap and project. It was so inspiring to watch the rest of the group share their yarns & projects. Sadly, I am not 100% happy with the finished object. It is certainly very beautiful and showcases Tony, from Posh Yarn’s, amazing dyeing skills but the end result was much too big and heavy to be worn as a wrap. I do use the wrap as a kind of blanket when I’m sat on the sofa and I’m a bit chilly – I drape it over my shoulders. But I’m not able to wear it with my winter coat as planned.

woman holding and wearing a large hand crocheted wrap made from mini skeins from an advent swap

All The Yarn Details

If you want to know more about the yarn bases and colourways I used, you can find those in my Ravelry project page.

The Dilemma

So… I am still considering whether to just continue using it as a lapghan. Maybe I should frog sections of it to make it smaller. I think the ideal size would be 4 motifs wide by 12 motifs long. Maybe even with just one row of granny stitch border join. This would make it considerably lighter and more wearable. Or perhaps start from scratch and make a new, smaller and lighter version, using basically the same pattern and layout? I’m also thinking going up a hook size, even to 2.75mm AND making it narrower & shorter would make everything lighter? What do you think I should do? And have you ever participated in a yarn advent swap? What did you make or are you still cherishing your little skeins?

Tapestry Crochet – Day Course

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I ran several 5 week tapestry crochet courses at the Riverhouse Barn Arts Centre in Walton-on-Thames where my students were able to make a full sized “Columbian bag” over the course of the weeks. They learnt all the basic techniques and were then encouraged to design their own bag or make one from a pattern. After many requests, I am now able to offer a Tapestry Crochet Day Course where you can learn some of the techniques used to create a Wayuu or “mochila” style bag. I have designed a cotton “mini-bag” project that incorporates many of these techniques so the student can practise and master this beautiful and very useful, crochet art-form.

Course Overview

  • Brief overview of bag construction & materials used.
  • How the bottom of the bag is made and basic principles of base design.
  • Getting started with your own bag.
  • Adding and changing colours – mastering the tapestry crochet stitch.
  • Making the sides of the bag – reading charts, designing your own patterns.
  • How to manage multiple skeins of yarn without tangling.
  • Making eyelets for the cord fastening.
  • Using crab stitch or reverse single crochet borders to reinforce and add stability and shape to the top and bottom of the bag.
  • Mastering two coloured crab stitch or reverse single crochet.
  • Making a simple cord.
  • How to make quick and easy tassels.
  • Tips for lining the bags.
  • Design options – examples of & ideas for projects using tapestry stitch.
three images showing the start of a crochet tapestry back, detail of a chevron design and tassels on a wayuu style bag

Schedule

Typically, the course is 5 hours long, with a 1 hour lunch break.
e.g. 10:00 – 12:30 Crochet, 12:30 – 13:30 Lunch, 13:30 – 16:00 Crochet

Class Size

I teach a maximum of 8 students in one class.

Class Format

All my classes come with detailed class notes and pattern. I provide samples and practical demonstrations of all techniques, helping and encouraging students with hands on assistance so that they can feel confident with their new found skills. Along with the class notes, the students should be able to continue & complete their mini project in the comfort of their own home, with relative ease. I am also happy to offer help by email, after the course, should any student have any questions.

Skill Level

Students must be competent with basic crochet techniques, particularly chaining & single crochet (UK double).

Three images showing crochet tutor and student, example of class notes and student crocheting a bag during class

Materials & Tools

I provide suitable cotton yarn for the project – I have a large selection of colours to choose from, so there should be something to suit all tastes.
The students will also need locking stitch markers and 2.5mm crochet hooks.
I can provide all of the above separately or as a kit, which can be incorporated into the overall cost of the course or as an extra payment on the day, per student.

Areas Covered

I am based in Surrey, and I’m willing to travel to London and most of the home counties. I have taught in Buckinghamshire, London, Berkshire, Middlesex & Sussex. I’ am always happy to consider locations further afield.

Fees & Availability

Please message me through my contact form for my fee structure and availability for this Tapestry Crochet Day Course.

Mini Basket Free Crochet Pattern

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Mini basket, free crochet pattern. This handy little crocheted basket design with handles, is a spin off from my “Three Little Bowls” pattern. A quick and simple pattern, this small basket uses three strands of Aran or Worsted weight yarns, held together. You could use three strands of the same colour or three different colours, for a lovely variegated effect. I love using multiple colours because each stitch is unique, depending on how the strands of yarn fall in place. I have used 3 x 50g balls of Drops Alaska (100% wool) in the colours Mustard (58), Light Grey Mix (03) & Off White (02).

It’s an ideal container for knick-knacks, face towels, hair accessories or small toiletries. This little basket is also an ideal craft stall make – sell empty or fill with treats. As with most of my free patterns, you’re welcome to make these to sell, either online or at craft fairs – all I ask is that you include a small tag or piece of paper, acknowledging that the pattern came from www.mezzacraft.com.

The pattern works up quickly and is an ideal “stash buster”!

For printable patterns, or to download and save onto your device, please click here – you’ll also find a version with British crochet terminology.

Warning : this crochet pattern is addictive!

mini basket free crochet pattern - baskets made in aran & worsted yarn in orchre, grey and cream wook.

Pattern for Mini Basket Free Crochet Pattern
(US CROCHET TERMINOLOGY)

Materials

Key

  • beg – beginning
  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – increase (2sc in one stitch)
  • rem – remaining
  • rnd – round sc – single crochet
  • t(s)– stitch(es)
  • sl st – slip stitch

Size

Finished basket is approximately 19cm / 7 ½ “ wide and 9cm / 3 ½ “ tall

Crochet Instructions

Work holding 3 strands of yarn together.

Start with a magic ring, alternatively, ch4 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1:
ch3; 11 dc in ring; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 – 12 dc

Rnd 2:
Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; 2dc in each rem st; make 1 dc in sl st join from prev rnd; join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch3 – 25 dc.

Rnd 3:

Ch3, in same st as sl st, work 1dc; (1dc in next st, 2dc in next) 12 times; 2dc in last st; DO NOT JOIN – 38 dc.

Place marker in last stitch to help mark the end of the row. From now on, the piece is worked in a spiral. For each of the subsequent rounds, remove the marker when you need to work into the last stitch and then replace it when you’ve worked the last stitch.

Rnd 4:
1sc in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 of previous rnd; 1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts) 12 times; 1sc in each of rem 2 sts – 50 sc

Rnd 5:
1sc in next st; (inc in next st, 1sc in next 3 sts) 12 times; 1sc in last st – 62 sc

Rnds 6-12:
Sc in each st – 62 sc ⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩⑪⑫*

Rnd 13:

1sc in each of next 6sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; ch8, sk7 sts, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 14:

1sc in each of next 6sts; make 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 24 sts; 8sc around ch, 1sc in each of next 18 sts

Rnd 15:
sl st in the back loop of each st.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

*Tip : cross off the rows as you make them.

Connect with me!

You can often find me on Instagram. Please do follow and tag me @mezzamay if you make one of my patterns, use one of my tips or stitch patterns. I really love to see what you’re making.

Newsletter

Why not sign up to my newsletter to receive news about my latest patterns, tutorials and giveaways!

Affiliate Links

I use affiliate links in my posts. If you click on a link and buy something I may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you.

Support me!

If you have enjoyed my free content or have found my tips and techniques useful, please consider making a small donation by buying me a coffee via Ko-fi.

Sewing In Ends Of Crochet Projects

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I often get asked how I weave in my ends and what is the best way to sew in ends of crocheted projects so that they don’t come undone or look messy. I’ve put together this post to show you how I’m weaving in the ends of a project. The project features solid granny motifs and the traditional granny stitch. It also deals in particular with very short ends which can be difficult to handle. It’s not a definitive guide – I’m just sharing with you how I do it.

Projects using multiple motifs are a great favourite of mine. I know other crocheters also love making motifs but are put off by all the ends that need sewing in. This is a time consuming task which is made all the more daunting when you are not really sure how to do it.

How do you make sure it’s secure?

In my experience, the key to a securely hidden end is to sew in one direction, then back on itself in the opposite direction, whilst making sure a stitch is caught or sewn over so that you’re not just undoing the stitch you’ve just made. I use a standard wool needle for knitters. It has a large eye and relatively blunt tip. Specifically, I use Pony Gold Eye Sewing Needles.

To start with, I always make the first step of securing the ends while crocheting. I.e. when I actually join the new yarn colour to the project. I do this by crocheting over the tail end for 3 or 4 stitches. Initially this doesn’t seem a very secure start. Worry not, as the final sewn step keeps everything in place. This works well with solid stitch patterns and clusters but is often not possible when you’re making a lacy or very open pattern. In these instances, you’ll need to employ other strategies.

If you’ve managed to catch the end in during crocheting, you only need to sew it back on itself again. Remember to catch in or skip over the first strand so that you’re not undoing the stitch.

How do you deal with very short ends?

When you have a short tail to sew in, start with the needle in the fabric/stitches where you want to sew and then thread the needle. I tend to use my thumb nail to push the yarn through the eye.

In most cases, sewing in one direction and then the other is enough to ensure the work doesn’t come undone. Don’t forget to skip a strand of yarn when you change direction (see second image above). However, if you’re making something for a baby, or a gift or a paid commission, you may want to add an extra step. I.e. change direction and sew back again before trimming the yarn. If you’ve got a very short tail, carefully pull the needle through, without un-threading it. Then use the eye of the needle to sew back on itself. This technique is not advisable if your needle is sharp!

How do you ensure it looks neat?

I always try to sew the ends into a congested area of stitches, such as a corner or cluster. I find this offers the most secure spot and the tail end finds it difficult to wriggle.

Sometimes, such as here, where the corners of the four motifs join, there is no congested area to conceal a tail end. Instead I make a running stitch into the post of an adjacent stitch – here it’s a double crochet, until I came to a denser area suitable for sewing into.

For both methods, I find it best to work from the back of the fabric. I check the front occasionally to make sure I haven’t left any visible stitches that might blemish my work on the right side. It is also important to ensure your sewing matches the gauge of your crochet pattern. After each sewn stitch, I gently pull the fabric to make sure my weaving in isn’t creating any pulls or puckering.

Lastly, I like to use a small pair of sewing scissors to CAREFULLY snip off the remaining tail end. Sadly, I have had disasters in the past. Once, coming to the last few threads, I managed to cut a hole in a project when I was rushing and excited to finish!

Project details:
  • This is a large wrap made using a modified version of the Blue Buoy Blanket pattern.
  • The pattern for the three row solid granny square can be found here.
  • The traditional granny stitch border an join can be found here.
  • KnitPro Zing Hook – size 3.25mm.
  • Yarn is sock weight/fingering yarn from Posh Yarn …25 different hand dyed shades in total!

And here’s a video.